PROVINCE’ or MANITOBA
MAN (TOBA
- Prouinclal Library
CLASSIFICATION
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OVERLAND ROUTE B BRITISH COLUMBIA | j Fi NRY — HIND, M.A., P.R.G.S.,
PROFESGOR OF CHEMISTRY AND GEOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF- TRINITY ss ~QOLLEGE, PORONTO; ;
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Te ARERR OF —- NARRATIVE OF THE CANADIANSEXPLORING EXPEDITION |
OF 1857, aND OF THE ASSINIBOINE ‘xp SASKATCHEWAN ; ; EXPLORING BXPEDITION ore 1868.
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Y : . ae . . yo . ERRATUM. og, i" The line at the ttom ‘of the 46th page go shold b be.the sixth ou yi ee line on page 47. . a + . . ; . . ‘ S : wee we teen qpenaes rae
7 “Tt is not unreasonable to look forward to the establishment of a regular : or pyatem ‘of transit; commencing” from Nova’ Scotia “and tha” shores’ of New : _ Branswick, pasging through Canada, touching upon the Red River Settlement’: ; crossing the Prairies to the Vzrsaition Pass, where-we know that the incli- natidn is ao moderate that natore has placed no ‘insurmountable obstaclés-to : the construction of a railway, fill it reaches the gold- bearing Colony ‘of Brit. "ish Columbia, creating frésh centres of civilization, and. ‘consolidating British interest, and feelings,” - Earn or Carnarvon at the Presentation of the Royal | awdids to Captain R., FF, Burton and Captain John Pallisen—Royal Geographi- ‘ ™, a ‘al Soriety, May, 23,1859, | 7
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JAS MERE, sketch like: the presoit Jequires no prefatory remarks, — It is sufficient-to say, that my dwa’ ‘personal knowledge of the country - extends to. the Elbow of the, South: ‘Branch of -the Saskatchewan ; j for the description- of the country west of that point I am indebted ~~ $6 British Parliamentary papers, and to several papers by Dr. James marys Hector, published in the prodeedings of. different learned Societies " Lf in Bogland and Scotland.” The’ large map was originally prepared i “by Arrowsmith/for my Report of the Assiniboine and Saskatchewan . pie ‘Expedition, pablished by command, London, Aug., 1860. “The * hy we smaller. faaps are from British Parliamentary papers. One ‘word © ah a ‘fo the ‘reader‘ebout | the: ‘North-west Territory. Glance at the map “ - _ and’ you will seé a broad; “yellow-coloured Fertile Belt, stretching .. ' from the Lake of the Woods to the auriferous . flaaks of’ the Rocky Mountains, ‘ That’ beautiful oasis i is bounded on the, north: by a. -- sub-aretia,- forest covered region, on the. south by an.arid and: ’- uninhabitable- desert, stretching to the Red Riyer of the'south and: ‘the high plains of, Texas. “That belt cgntaids yoRTY MILLION, acres © ; “ of the richest soil. - On ‘the western limits of thé Fertile Belt li lies -~ “the great gold country. .Cross/the low height of land, not 5 000. feet above; the ‘sea, through the Vermillion Pass,’ and you tread “upon the auriferous terraces ét British Columbia. , Cariboo and Koo- : . ‘tanie are both just on the other’ side of the riountaing, or between four y ‘ -and | ‘five hundred, miles from ‘thé, Pacific coast. ‘The whole valley® of: the-"Upper ‘Colambia' ~ curiff TOUS 3 ‘the: entire western. flank of--~ -:
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vie - INTRODUOTION. SO
7 the mountains is a, region ‘rich in gold.: «Ib is'as it were a step from
i the Fertile Belt, drained by the North Saskatchewan, to one of the. richest gold “fields i in the world, in’ the midst of grand mountains, towering precipices, and foaming rivers, but with little pasture land, -
, + ‘or land fit for tillage. Is there not in this a providential disposition ?
eS : Does not, that Fertile Belt point out the tructpath across the conti-
“nent? The way by which, first” British Golmbia, then . China, .
\ then Indie, may be reached from Europe. The way by which 8
British civilization, laws and liberty are to be carried to the Pacifio, + nud thence to Asia, through Barrisn Amertoa.
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ee CONTENTS, 5 so OR
‘ns ‘ so . PAG Tan PRAIRIE ROUTE ct ececeecsecetsctastesesesscscioleacesce 1
“Distances from St. Paul'to St. Cloud... ....cceeeceeeececeee 16, LOE ‘ope “to Pembina, basses csc cece emseees 16 woe : “« ' .@ Fort Garry’ to Port Ellice..../..s0..eceeee0e 19 Sag See “* Fort Ellice to the Elbow. of the ‘South.Branch es
--of the Saskatchewan ....... :
, ie Kasse PAS secesatueeaefetabenen
= ~-Hseeee PHT soe tecetecetectdeucheouarendcsctevecegesenseeteces 20% oes 2 eRe ar enna Be _ THR ATHABASKA PAGS, oo escesececceecnee ce tene es teat cee su se cutee 84 .Kyown Passes ‘of 108 Ropxr MOUNTAINS vo fesu cs leccdscceteseeden” 35 “Taz Nonrmmny Rours vid EDMONTON oo. ss tele ceeetegecer sees tenses 36 - : ..) "Dae Inpran RIDES OF TINE VALUEY.OF' THE SASKATCHEWAN .-......02- 38
_ Tse CunrE cor rome oon. Morris ««... see teenee - 40
we “'Paoteer OF. A Rovrz ACROBS ThE Conmivent Lee EH e be Cb ee eg enseenens 49 at
Tae Fenrng Beur IN tae Vatcer- oF me SASKATCHEWAN. ....0.60005.° 88" ‘~ Mr, “BounorAn’s MEMORANDUM 1.3.4 sseesewteses tore sienighees ese. 69.
THE SASKATCHEWAN ROUTE 2.0... c.cc0iseeeeliveeteckeeeee, 68 A ‘Smitcn, oF tHE GxroLoay, or rae Rocky MOUNTAINS Jo... 020 eee 68 Jv Terraces in the Motntaing. 5.00. 60c ic ecececeeeeelecseees 69.
"BRITISH COLUMBIA .....s.csssessesueesssenunevesesonnseeoes 12 -
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. YCaribO0 eves eel e cence ee cg ececenateeceereeecanarenye a en I shy {The Climate «+ 2+ss0esesesersgersteepetserecseesse sds 4% a " Mining Licenses? ..2 sss ésurse ° * Victoria to Cariboo: . ,
7 «yt, hi . CONTENTS, _ PAGE... | ° Dmecr Rovrs titover Brrrisiz Coruststa, ro 1m PAcrrid, .'.....5 seoee 18 : Cononuston—The Hon. W. H. Seward, Secretary of State, U.S., ox vas . NN Furure OF CANADA. cocecsevecencccedecscectcnssccesccenee AY 7 Puacrioat Onskr vations oN THE Construction or A Conrmuovs Live or: ‘ +
Ramieay FRoM CANADA TQ THE ‘PACIFIO Ooran,:on Briviso Temnr, 2 |:
ony, bY SaRDronD Fueniing;'C.E,.. sss yheaceeeseepenevens 80
Ute Character ...ceceelecce teenie eeeliltheeseseeesanaees 82 th Hes Magnitude.» s-c-sseeasseetazgereedpficcbessengs tosses 87. |
- ts Importance. .... 4% 904.4 wa :
veveeeceeeeses 89
So Scheme of Construction . these aeeee 7 gp a oo. The Road System of Caviada. . ee ene | Se rn : - A Road System for Now, Terrritoriea...++. esses esererseees 101. . aya wow eee eet ABEND TE
. Tar Lonpon ‘Toes! Corresronpent’s EErten. cc csseencssedeusees 118 | ' Freicat From Sz. Paut to.Fort Cr 127 Lier or Neocrssary on UseruL ARTIOLES~I -A- Jounney ACROSS |THE
Peat ro Brrrisu Conus... .. sae eeeeeeeees ~ 1. ch Pos _ ADVERTISEMENTS.” eee
1, Nanrative or ram Canapian Expronme Exreprrions........00040665 129 5
«° 129.
2, Exerorations mx tue Inrerton or Tre Latranonk PEnINsota ....
Sa route to ) choose- from, iavolving “very “different means of com-.
Coe HY “OVERLAND ROUTE. |}
| ne TO H .
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
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TTAw Gnigrant OF tontist, starting from any part of the valley” of the St. Lawrenee, and desirous of crossing’ the continent by’ the most direct road to ‘British Columbia, has two lines of
‘munication. He may make the greater part’ “of the long " journey in canoe or freighter’ 8 Boat, or he may adopt 1 the. less” - monotonous and perhaps more.agreeable mode of travelling; by - traversing the prairies and mountains on horseback br on foot. In. cage he choose, the water, communicatio; ; his point of ° “departure will be Fort William, on Lake superior and the . "voyage will be made altogether, throagh British territory: Af , he should prefer the prairies, he will start from St.. Paul 6 — "Ste Cloud; in: Minnesota, or from: Fort Garry, ‘at Selkirk or? . “Red River Settlement, which’ he may reach’ by the’ canoe route > from Fort William; or the ‘land route from. St.. Cloud. “These sagas of communication differ so widely from o one another, that.
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I shall describe the details of each: under the separate headings.
of «“ ‘Tae PRAIRIE Rovrz,” and. “ “ Canoz Ro} ITB. 4 re must you
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oe , cf aac | Fi “ot . n ne PRAIRIE aljerds! 24, . I wit assume that a ‘party of twenty have “made. ‘arrange-
” “ments to ‘travel in company, and share all the difficulties ‘and _ dangers of the Prairie Route. --
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" ‘The best taode of proceeding would be, to meet a Si. Pail. oe
town to Pembina and Fort Garry. The reason why it is not advisable to make an earlier start, will be at once apparent
..or'St. Cloud,-in ‘the Stte-of- Minnesota; during-the' last; week + in April, in time for the first trip: -of the steamer from George
‘- when it is known that the Red River of the North oes: not i
- become clear of ice before the middle of: April, and: in some
years it‘ is much: later.. In 1859, Capt. Blakiaton’ crossed, . * Red River.onj the ice, with horses, near. the.
th parallel, on
with horges and carts, it would not be advisa the second week in May, as there would’ be no young. grass
‘on the prairies for. the cattle; and the rivers would: all be’ fall, and much of the country flooded, in. congequence: of the:
melting snows... -When the Red d River. half-breeds make their
annual journey, from Fort Garry ‘to Crow-wing and St. Paul, eee
the 1st day o \May. we ee es intend to proceed from 86, Paulor-§ St. Cloud: a
they usually, start from the settlements between.. the 1st ‘and «
10th of June, which is the earliest pe period _whén-they’ -eanply on fresh pasturege f for’ their horses and oxen,
are
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If the’ party should determine to > tiike the chance of pro-. guring horses at Pembina, St. Joseph, or the Red River ’
Settlement, it would be desirable to’make enquiriés as to the -'
time when the steamers will--be likely to. leave Georgetown, - .
- on their first trip down. the river. ‘The journey:can be made-
from Canada by’ ‘rail to Milwaukee; thence to Prairie du Chien or any other point on the. Mississippi; ; thence by steamer to
“St. Paul. Froth that place to Georgetown, on Red River,
about 290 miles, Burbank’s stages form, regular line of com-
“munication ; and. from Georgetown steamers will convey the
_ party “to Pembina. or Fort Garry. If" the: ‘connections are
properly made, the distance between T' ronto and Fort Garry
’ can be accomplished in twelve or. thirteeh days. It is doubt-
_ curing fifteen or: twenty horses each in the
ful, however, whether several peroe mel succeed in pro-
settlements without considerable loss of time,-and paying an exorbitant price for them! The Hudson Bay Company were'so short of-horses in 1858, that/they allowed ‘Capt. Palliser £20 stetling ‘each for twenty-five horses. I was:compelled'to pay the Company, at: Fort Garry, £50 sterling ‘for two good horses, in- June of the
* game year; and only procured them: through the intervention . of Sir-George Simpson. Pembina and St. Vincent are very
small and-scattered villages, without any résources whatever: St. Joseph, thirty miles. west of Pembina, contains: about: five
_. ‘hundred souls; and ‘horses’ may be’ obtained there. ‘Bat, if: . several: parties of twenty each, propose to follow. the: Prairie”
“Route on horseback, there will be great difficulty in procur™ ing” horses’ at’ or near Fort Gerry, or at St. Joseph.” Both — ‘horses and imules | can. n. be, obtained: at. ‘Bt Paul, or in the towns :
7
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. between st. Paul gnd Crow-wing. “It will be a. matter for: . careful consideration: -whether: it would. not’ “be advisable. to
make sure of-this important. part of the outfit’ “before. Teay- _
-. ing the settlements on the Upper Mississippi:, CR
'.. I will assume, in the first instance, that the members of eo
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‘safety, and: with very: little: iron work. about it; is*a- ‘comfort=: - -. able, convenient, * and- valuable’ adjunct to. Be. journey. across -
-’ + the Prairies ;° “and if constructed in- the. Tnanner. ‘described, . and drawn by. a. yoke’ of. well-trained . oxen, | ora pair. of, good -
party, consisting of twenty. persons, determine to procure. 2. their fof outfit at St. Paul, or:between it and_St..Cloud, and make that town the starting point of their journey. ...They will require. at least five carts, “constructed: after the fashion of. those in ‘common use in Lovver, Canada or at Red River, with ‘broad " strong ‘wheels, and-with as ‘little. iron. work about them as”
- possible. The Red River carts have: no iron work; not éven .
_& screw, nail, or, tire; and. they are quite strong enough, ©... when well made,to go to- the Rocky Mountains’.and:‘back- - “
. again, with one or. two changes of the axle, which is the only”
part liable to wear'.away under: ordinary” Teireimistances..
. Waggons; constructed after the model-common in’ “the: ‘Stites and Canada, are .to’ be avoided, ‘without - ‘they: are: provided ; swith weery Rood and strong. team. "There. is always: diff- “culty in getting a. Waggon ‘through the: swamps .and bogs. : oI" _ * had an American waggon with me-in 1858, intending to'teke’’ it‘as far,as, the E Elbow of the South Branch‘ of. the. Saskatche- , - a yan, but T was ‘glad to leave it at. Fort’ ‘Ellice: until” my ‘Te ‘ “tirn, “There .is no doubt, however, that a. covered: Waggon’. : with high and broad wheels, made as'light as is, consistent: ‘with -
‘horses ¢ or maules, it, is ‘to be recommended:
Ba | . - ; ‘Mules’ ‘are very ‘valuable, if. ‘good animals can be ‘obtained 5. . 2 they are: ‘extremely hardy, very sure-footed, ‘keep fat on indif-
ferent pasture, and generally have. great endurance. Oxen' |
. are.slow and sure, but must-always ‘be watched ortethered at | " night, for the first thrée or four weeks, or else they will wander,
and-endeavor to.retrace their steps homeward. ‘Instances have °
frequently been’ known i in the praries of. oxen starting off in a
direct line for their homé3,. and ‘making 2 265-and 80 miles before |”.
" they. were Gaught=- I lost an ox for some: ‘hours on the. ‘Assini
. boine, when, 200 miles from Red River ;-he ‘-swandered . home: a
"ward in the night-time, and was overtaken: about 10 miles from” te camp,’ ‘leisurely retracin g his. steps: to the settlements. . xen have the advantage over ‘horses ‘in being able to draw; Bh henter loads: ‘ Phe usual load for'a long j journey is from 400 to:
600 Ibs.- for horses, and from 700 to:900 Ibs. for oxen. “The | Z
- ‘usual distance travelled during tle day is from 20 to 25-milés: - When-the-: roads, are good, .the weather favorable,. and: the , * loads: not too heavy,.oxen will’ accomplish twenty-five milés - 2. “day: -for ‘a: month. together. (Sundays excepted), without diffi.
_oulty,: arid. not - lose- condition. . There. are few Red. oe . a
os ‘horses that will, do: this without losing flesh. - Pee . “The /provisions ‘absolutely necessary._{or the je journey: to a”
least three quarters ofa ‘pound of flour. or. oatmeal,and half a.
.
ay
“pany wnaccustomed:to tie} prariés or-te-hunting, are at pooh
te pound of. bacon: per.diem, and. tea at the: rate of one ‘poundiper’ “8
uring: Prarie hens and a duck. on the trail after leaving | the settle.
. “month: ‘This is. the minimum that | ‘shoul’ be- taken. At-is . _) 4 assumed that. mostof the party: will’ be provil led awith | a. single a Or: double-barreled gun, and there will ‘be ‘no. difficulty i in ‘pro- *:.
"ments, ag far as 5 Pembitia, After Iéaving! Pembina, “prairie hens? will be scarce, but along the whole line of route enough ducks ,
and geese may! be procured to-supply a considerable - proportion | _ of the provisions required. ‘. When near: the south branch of the |
‘Saskatchewan, buffalo will probably be met with, and a supply of dried meat may be laid. “ap in.store. The journey, including
. Btoppages, will probabl yrequire from ten Weeks to.three months; “ - consequently, the minimum amount of provisions it would-be -.
rate
oo safe to rely upon, - would be. 60 Tbs. of/ / Pour, and 40 Xba. of — ‘ bacon or pork, or. dried beef, ‘for ' ‘each’ man. df pemican’ or.
dried buffalo meat can be- procured. at the. settlements or: at:
_ St. Joseph, ret doable better provision -ean-be . . ; “| had; but.it’ would not be wisé\to rely upon: obtaining. ‘a supply _
lived during the -wholé summer. of 1858 .on. dried buffalo meat,
laying on the groiind at_night, and: making ® temporary tent
" ‘under the carts, or with three’ poles. - : Each cart should be. pro. "vided with two oil-cloths; they: are always useful, and sometimes -
_ most valuable, : asin crossing rivers, during thunder-storms and . prolonged rains, &. . Hach ‘member. ‘ofthe: party should be”
. provided with ‘atleast .one-complete change: ‘of good stréng ”
., clothing, with an additional supply of flannel. shirts, worsted .
- stockings and Aatinel, drawers. : “An: Andia-rabber Or emttas
: and such other.casual Supplies of venison and mountain ‘trout + a8 -he was able to -procure. . He had: neither "bread,-salt nor 7
. -sugar; and did ‘Rot feel the want of these apparent necessaries: * “2. ‘of life. “‘Teats-a are not necessary, but oil-cloths areindiapensa- "ple, not only for : protecting the supplies during rain, ‘but also for —
_ of pemican or dried meat in the spring of the.year. “‘Captain’ - Blakiston, -one.of the thembers of the Palliser ‘Expedition, - -_
se
wed
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“percha cloth j is very valuable. in crossing rivers. ° ‘The mode
of effecting this operation “willl ‘be described further . on. At =. - the close of these ‘pages, a list. of. indispensable and ‘merely mo
useful, articles. are given, 80 that any further enumeration 3 is ;
‘at present unnecessary. . _
’. If the party are fully equipped at St. Paul, the route “may- oo og fs Le by, the mail ‘and stage road ‘to Georgetown, ‘thence by the - 7 | prairie rdfd o on the east bank of Red ‘River;to'Pembina. . It is aan: ot advisable to-travel ‘on thé west bank; in’ ~eonsequendéiot a a f ‘wandering parties of Sioux Indians, who -are- always ‘ready, toe. x \ seize-any, opportunity: of stealing horses, and sometimes ven-
- ture to “lift. scalp.” The’ distance ‘between Bt. Paul-and
» Georgetown is as follows: Be
“A
an ° o FROM ST. PAUL TO ST. CLOUD, Ka ‘MOLES, . ee . Si. Joseph - ween ceeeeees sea eeee : ceececguasases i ae woes s Cold Spring. .... See vee e eee eednencet *A0 We ; Richmond - «25.064 +++ wee ceewres : 4y ' Oak’ Grove . scaeee aeee hy Sauk. Centre .
- (Qsakis .....! Dviverscveveneess abees ‘Alexandria’ snl eee ene weeeeee on . en .
Ce mene menswear as ensede rece
— Breckenridge..:./.0..+6 00. eee. Graham's Point > hk as: oe ’ Burlington . y land 4° s.,.: - «+ §hayenne: - eeeee ores ws ~ Georgetown. . ee , .
_ “But if it is 3 desirable to ‘take. thé most dikect’ ‘route tb Pamae : 7 _ bina; the: rood will ‘Pass through | Crow-wing, and Otter Tai.
ir? orl
ee Sts “Anthony” (opposite the “Falis).
o
. . CROW WING
"Outlet: of Leaf Lake Leaf City (three or-four houses). .,
“a 1 gf
we
‘River. This is the route I followed i in “i957, when returning
from Fort Garry to Crow-wing. © The road is good and safe,
-and there is a ferry at Red Lake River. The following are
the distances : 2 ; To. gt PAUL 70 ‘PEMBINA,: United States Hilitary Road “Surveys, 1857. -
~ , FROM 87. ‘PAUL TO: o
: Sane. a Dera. a 9S 9
Manomin. ae
i Tard
ee a rr rd
rr ar
i TPM eee eee mene toner n es er enancncansee eo i
eo rr
Balle Prairie. wate ec eaees teeeee . : ‘Olmstead’s 20.00. cece cece ese at neces . Mouth of Nokay river (opposite, Fort Ripley) =
er arr ar
Ce ee ee es
Cone oe Bl of Leaf oaniain
ee es
Otter Tail City (to left of road)... 2... ccc. cc oo First Pt oe of Otter Sail River, Giash Laks)
as = Grossing! ‘of Sand Hill River, 80 ft wide;.14.ft deep- me
- the’ Red-River ‘Expedition of 1857, page: 884, 391.
os One by’ \Fort Garry, ‘and thence to Fort Ellice by, the trail oy
” Bnd of gurces syed line, Odometer mecaurements. ae 2 Oe “ » Third crossing’ of Otter Tail River. .... tetecaens AE! sy Detroit Lake—North shoro....:.... s : Lake-Floyd (Eagle's Nest Lake).......
* North end of small Lake to. left of road * - “Timbered Lake to left. pitas Buffalo River, 10 feet wide, 1 foot deop 7 :. Dividirig ridge, lake and- timber. . he ag Junction of St. Cloud and Pembingitiail :. Pies qe sade f Crossing of Wild Rice River, 85 ft. wide, 2 ft deep. Bs J
Crossing of Wild Rice Creek, 15 ft. wide, "I ft; ‘deep &
me, .. Crossing'of Sand Hill reck, 12 feet Wide +. ...6 - - Bad Marshes......./:- poses eens Beceee
- Stony. Butte and Lake ot wtb eee eee ryeee ey whe da wees _ Small Creek, water in holes” sas bedleseeceeseees m ; Crosse of Red Lake River, 115 feet i wide, 84 feet
a Small Take and Marsh bedees ; weeee hacnee scene . “ Small Lake «1.2.0.2... wee te eee aee Treaees ~* Goulée . 2... eee eens Deeks eee eaeaees " ‘Crossing of Snake River ; er Te _ Crossing of Middle River, ‘ ‘20'ft. wide,.6 in. deep - “Crossing of Pine River, 15 ft. wide, 1 ft. K, deep ’..’ ‘Bend of Pine River, saeee vee . see et ome Creck?, . ,
. Me Ub... 8
.
Pembina 32: a Pe edeeetertseceeaesee A
of brief description of the ‘youte is gixent in in. ‘any. Report on -. ; ; -Onte’ at Pembind, two -routes lie“open 4 to .the travellers.
. “north of ‘the ‘Assiniboine, the, otber_by Std josephis sand the -
om From this point to Pembing the ‘distances are.‘those gives 5 Gatonat a . Noble, 1889, me ot oS
Wo Little Souris Crossing ; thence by the west bank of the Assin-" iboine to Fort Ellice. The first -is the ‘safest, but longer ‘than the route by St. Joseph. The difference in length is” however more than compensated by the safety of ‘the Toute, © asthe Little Souris ‘is often fréquented by:Sioux, who it will-:
a be remembered are the ‘enemies of the: half-breeds ond of. 4 | k=" white men generally. At the Settlements ‘on Red River, itis: ; ' “also extremely probable that two or-three-half-breeds-would »-*° .‘
> -rbe glad to-accompany the party, atid the knowledge they pos- - > ess of prairie ‘travelling, their.familiarity with the -habita-of v:+' ” Tndions!and. with the language of the Crees, through whose " "country: the greater patt of the trail runs, would ‘be of very. “great advantage to any. ‘party, -.. With. ten. or, twelve half- _ breeds associated with the party there would be no danger in’ ” _ attempting to. go straight across the prairies between the north ~ “and south branches of the Saskatchewan, through the country. y: ofthe Blackfeet and “Piegana, ‘but- without these admirable ae guides it would’ scarcely be advisable ‘to attempt that-route; . “and: consequently. the longer and: more northerly trail, by — . Carlton, Edmonton, and, Rocky: Mountain House, would ‘have . to, be adopted. a an het : ry ; _ _ ‘ a 7 a . ; Either at St. Joseph’ or at the Settlements at.Red River, . ., : “.’ @few-horses may be picked up, but the. price willno doubt’be =. * _high, from: $70 to $100; as the demand is very great at this hee _. time, and the half-breeds have, not. anticipated’ the require-- ~/ :Ments of the present: season’ bysprocurinig: hoses fromthe . °°” Indians or from the settlers atthe ‘Mission ‘of St. Ann, onthe: 2? Saskatchewah, who-are wWell_ provided ‘with these useful aiti- 2.
hials. It is nét improbable, however; that a small emigration
: 19.
may take place from-Red River to the Cariboo and Kootinte - . gold fields this season, and if this be the case, the half-bréeeds ‘will be glad, no doubt, to dispose of i some of thei stock. Hence
. it may occur that ‘horses and oxen are cheaper than usual, but © it would not be-wise to rely on this contingency, -Taore espe- - ‘Gially’ as many parties of twenty or more each, are now organy * izing in Canada and: the States fora journey across the
_ Prairies to the » gold. fields. ‘of British’ ‘Columbia.
FORT: GARRY TO. FORT ELLICE, via THE WHITE xuD . RIVER TRAIL. , :
re oh. yumms. * = -Fort Ganny. —Camp on the prairie. @ood pasturage e. O° Ue a _ Lawz’s ‘Posr.—Good trail through a fertile ‘country, partially: set.” SO ee “ :tled. ‘Fine prairies adapted for grazing and agriculture.’ :Clumps' :
of poplar. Heavy timber in the bays of the river... .:....5.5 ys Camp" at a stagnant pool in the shelter of a bluff of poplar. , Good ‘ res ‘ prass. “Heavy ‘timber skirting the river... 0.6. eee eee ee ees 4.7
Pam PortacE.—200 inhabitants: Cross a level prairie .with
: _ gich ‘soil. ‘and herbage, but" nearly; destitute ° “of trees; Good’. 7 - S PTAZING oe cece ee eee eee te eee wee eee ete nee tee * cewne OF ee »- . Pear Porrace 10 Bat. fives ine open treeless prairie. « No it : ’
wood. ' ‘Splendid pasturage. : weeee ’ Rat River 70 Forp oF Warre Moo "Riva Very fine agricaltaral -- _ country, diversified with beautiful woodlands and extensive,open : > * meadows.. Grass and many varieties of" plants wonderfully luxue ir 25 | yiant.. Crossing at Rat Creek’bad;, deep mud.-....,...4.4.- ee 14 _ORgssnN or Waite Mup "Rrver.—(55- feet wide, 4 feet “ied on », August.) . Fine .grass and timber; trail follows’ ‘bank of White “Mud Riyer, then through a rich praitie country, with t ‘man invert an “> meadows, and woods of aspen..-....-0.5- ci taeccteecee wiht 260 Norra. Bani ¢ or Wurre Mop, ‘Rrver.——Fine tiniber! Come onthe °°" " -. flanks ‘of the Riding Mouritain, . ond traverse. 3 ‘righ. undulating ; ; country; excellent pasture; Kc tY6ES.. oes ee cede ome pg: a “‘Bine country’ to Abe Little jask catchewan, at’ the. oot of. the Riding . , ‘ Mountains ing. (Rive 8 feet deap,-current 84 miles ‘ - an hour, (Aug. 28th). PR fear crossing the Little Saskatchewan’ the conittry.is thickly: covered with willows and aspen ; “excellent eee A ny: Sentry beaulifi... ae seg een de gin ce: oe
; past
cs
,-
y
re Fine rolling-eountry. - Ponds very numerous ; * duck in great abun- . _ . dance; junction of upper and lower trails.” adc e ees ee neenees 25° . Open country, with excellent Pasturage, all, the: way to Fort Ellice. i) : Fort Garry to Fort Elica on- Beaver Creek, via the Whito ‘Mud. ve ‘River U0: | Ca a 236,
t
“It would not be. safe’ to rely upon ‘getting any provisions at | ’ Fort Ellice ; ‘they | are generally,-< ‘ starving)”. during. the early ©
_ > Bummer, awaiting the Supplies of Buffalo- meat from the prai-
_Ties. - The xoute from: ‘Fort-E Ellice: will- dépend upon-the deter-~ " mingtion ion of the party to takes course direct to the. Kananaski | _ Pass; via th Qu*A ppelle and the south branch of the Saskatshe- wan,’ or by ihe -Touchwood Hills, Carlton, and the: Rocky .. Mountain House, to the Vermillion Pass. If the party is |
. Strong, and accompanied by-half- bréeds, the shortest: way. will «
no doubt. be through the Blackfeet and Piegan country ;, but,”
- if there are no half-breeds in ‘company, the route should be by’ -
_ the: Touchwood ‘Hills and the north branch of the Saskatche- wan. I shall first describe the route via the Qu’Appelle a and _ othe South Bianch, coe a ”
FORT: ELLICE a THE ELBOW OF THE ‘SOUTH BRANCH OF,
. THE SASKATCHEWAN. a. woeta 7
“ pairie succeed: Dede tele eee c aces esas ease asec een etees ae: .
Men undglaiag open prairie, succeeded bya irecless rolling} prairie, eed or Bear Berry Ridge, camp on an undulating prairie, with . clumps of poplar and‘willows. Soil of prairies traversed, light.” with gravelly ridges: Areas of rich loam with good grass in the ©," : . «depressions, Abundance of water in numerous: ponds dotting - ~ coe % the plain. Wood scarce, Trail runs parallel’ to the Qu'Appelie ne ‘at o "distance Of 12-16 miles... 0.6. cece cee e eee eee tens 26y° 0°. - Haltafter 12 miles travel over a vast. treeless rolling prairie, with wt . soil and herbage as before.. From this station.on-an pen plain, 27 _ the’ woods of ‘the Qu’ 'Appelle, 32-18 miles off, may'be seen. . ae .’ "* Indian .Head Hills" succeed. PASS THE:. 'QWAPPELLE: ve ae Toe“ BORT TRAIL, course: lies over'a light” treeless~ undulating -prai--; ¢-—--—-- ~~ - < le, sloping gently towards the Qu’Appelle, and intersecter by" several creeks flowing i in deep valleys. Plenty: of wood, water. : ‘and grass....\. cece cece ee ceva sete neee teers ecessnae te A vast level prairie, with dark, rich soil, ‘bearing luxuriant grass, . followed by a light, undulating prairie with many knolls, ridges, |, “and ponds. Church of England Missionary Post at the Fish-’” Soot - ing Takes, Qu'Appelle Valley. Good grazing’ in the valley: ie ee ios “186 Sy The is bya no means necessary. to go: to the. Qu! Appella Mis- ae sion.” wre trail to. Qu’Appelle Fort, referred to'in'a. proceed- a
. ing paragraph, may be pursued on-towards. the, Forks of, the. - ‘Qu’Appelle, and the route to the Elbow of the: South Branch ° “ may follow: ‘either. side, of ‘the’ river. : The: south is perhaps a equally as good. as the north side, which I followed: i in 1858, ~ a although. the: gullies are ‘not’ so deep, but buffalo are: more ue "”', amimerous on the south sidé*than the north: “On approaching |” the Sandy’ ‘Hills it will ‘be advisable- to- keep a sharp: ‘look-out +, ‘for Blackfeet: and. Plain, Crees, espegially the ‘latter, who are* _ Certain’.to’ be seen ‘in’ considerable fraser this - ‘being: their’. hunting ground during the'summer"months, when they ‘employ aa .” theniselves in‘running. sndeimpounding buffalo, particy at
on to the whites; ‘their chict is snamed Waeoosnt o or “The Fox;” “+? the chief of the Sandy Hills is: MisticKoos-or “ Short-stick. moe ”- It would be advisable;to inuke them.s small présent of. tobacco, tea, powder and. ball. . i RS oe
The following’ are thence — Se rl : , , soo . mine, Qu Arrentz Forr 70 1H Forxs._—-Good pasturage, wood and: water 45 . Cross the Qu’ Appelle at the. Fekke-and ascend to the north side: . Jv. ' 1. Light prairia, short grass... 25.00.60 lle lee cece anes ~15}.. ae ce ee Undulating: prairie of-light- sandy ahd: Jgrivelly “soil; with ® poor ‘short ~ o Food: and water in ravines, The. tral retreats twoor Chetan
‘ - Prail oops away from ‘the river to head the’ ravines, Prairie of ick ~ aa . \., «Sand with numerous boulders. Grazing poor, . Wood and water, voo.*" ** gearce, * Buffalo probably visible 2.02.00... 106 duane gee tees : 20 _ .’ Sterile‘and stony buffalo plain, poor ‘grass, no water for some: ‘niles, Ltt oe Sand Hill Lake; with good grass in the flats. Sand Hill Lakeis |” >, salt. A spring‘on the south ‘side-on the hill near the east end -
ee of Sand Hill Lake. Wood very'scarce, ..Cross'the Qu’ Appelle, 16}.
oe Re-cross the Qu’Appelle yalley after five miles, Plenty of: ‘water’ OP en rhe! ‘ ‘among the Sandy Hills. Grazing indifferent ..2......00050¢9! ae: ee wo . North bank of thé “ River that Turns” to the Elbow. of the South . . SS
+ Branch. _ Good wood, water: and pasturage. Uross ‘the “River - ~ that: Turns,” near its mouth, and proceed to ford about halfa |
: 2. mile! above ‘its, junction “with - the South Branch of: the ‘Sas-- 0 *S _ .. Katchewun eet eweceace ete hb eeeeade tines Seeeceveeas 2 it a :
- From-Fort Ellice'to.the, ibow of the South, Branch of the Seca on chewan, near the Qu’ Appelle River.>. pee ale oe ee weeny . B08 Se
-From Fort: Garry to the Elbow of the. ‘South. Branch... , 531 . © a
From. St Paul to the EXbow of the South Branch, via Fort Gey 9B"
. “After passing: the south branch of: ‘the Saskatchewan ‘ad the -- ey “ Elbow, the. travellers enter. a region in hich there is. not only.
no trail; ‘but + frequently, Aifioulty in | procuring: pastygage and :
. “wood. ‘The best course is to keep%rithin two or three miles. , . of the South. Branch 'as far as the ld Hudson Bay. Company's - ‘Post, Chesterfield House, now-abandoned, a distance: of ninety ~
- miles. “From Chesterfield’ House the course isc by the banks of Red. Deer’ River. With the’ exception of the deep and . narrow valley ¢ of Red Deer. River, the: prairié is a sterile and
‘barren. -country,. with scanty. herbage 1 and no wood, but: there . .
is good feed on, the high’ plateaus to the north. | The couné try'drained’ sby the South Branch and. its tributaries south” of the wooded region, shown on. the map as-the ‘Fertile’ Belt,’ is . _ an arid:treeless ‘regiop. _ On the elevations, four hundred feet . “above the plain,’ the ‘aspen and ‘willows occur in patches: tor... gether, with. good: grazing: ground... The Indians.who-hunt on these arid plains, are, the ‘Blackfeet, ‘the Bloods, ‘and’ the’ Pies. . game. “Capt Palliser thus: describes the: Blackfeet: -
ou Owing to-my; having been 80 much i ‘in, the. Blackfoot, ‘country; oth in in |
. the summer-of-1858.and. the winter. of.1858~-0, all-the: chiefs. and. princi-.
» pal men know me, and frequently, said to. ‘me, * Desire us to do anything -
hi pleage-and-we' will do it” “Doctor Hector has also, acqiired: a great influence among. them- “by. removing some trifing complaints from the” men, ind-s. great: success, in. his profession. among. the women and ‘chil- - ' ‘dren... Neither. is this friendly feeling-confined to the Blackfeet. alone, for - both: ‘Piegans-and, Blood Indians; whenever ‘they.came in any numbers to ‘visit ine, always rode unarmed into my camp, whieh i is. the mrentest com: - a -plinient that these-Indians can possibly pay. ; . “ = “We haye-now-travelled through. the whole. of their. tarzitories, ‘a por- fete ‘tion: “of coun “50; -dang rous_as:to be, almost: inaccessible, ‘and, we hive « . ‘neither had-a.horse.s len-or.a gun pointed:at-us by any: of these. tribes. ' - - However, I: do; not. wish to, infer, thata total stranger. would; be equally “sal nor "that any, ona accompanied by a military force (uhless that force “were a very ,large‘one) would:also be safo; I think.in. either case.they ~ ‘wwould-run-a¥ ory great. risk of: having: all: their, horses stolen.” These In-. a = og inter, lasge-camps, | from 400 t to, 600 tents teeptber: Blue _ a i" -!
“
Le . wo, Do, mee ys sd nn 12d ' ‘ ne fo foa
Red. Deer River can be followed wp to the junction ofa | small tributary \possing. to Slaughter Camp; ‘Shown’ on the: Ae.
‘map, and.from thii-place the course ‘will be to.Old Bow Fort \. «; or Bow River. —\ po wt Frém Bow Fort.tio passes are open to the Kootanie River .
-. °' and the ‘Columbia ver—one the Kananaskt Pass, which ~~" tO | leads/ directly to’-the Kootanie, the other the, VERMILLION
\ Pass, which first touc es the Kootanié River, and then by the -
“c-----4-ARjeking-horse Pass legde the ‘tiavelléF to'this Colittabias. Gald? > =
_ + | has been found on the oottinie,; and a ‘rush”’ of miners has
* “ \already taken place ‘to \the’ valley of this river, Capt.Palliser -
hoe Y
‘4 / thus describes the Kawanaski Pass, 0 +, = Cn fede oo > etd KAN ANASET PASS.) 00) 77 Cartiplaadg™7T™
i “On the 18th of August I started to seck for thie new pass across the. Rocky Mountains, proceeding up the north side of the souffi"branch of.
' the Saskatchewan or Bow River, ‘passing the mouth of Kananaskis—-~---
",” River. Five miles higher up we ‘crossed the Bow'River and entered a
: ravine, . We fell upon Kananaskis River and -travelled'up itin.a south. J westerly directibn; and ‘th following day we reached -Kananaskis Prairie, _ ie known to:the Indians as ¢ 16 place “where Kananaskis was-stunned but, ''’ -
not killed.” - On'the 21st we passed two lakes about two miles long and one wide.” We continued our course, winding through this gorge in the _ .. _» mountaihs-among cliffs of'a tremendous height, yet our onward progress ~~ -~ “was not impeded by obstacles of any consequence; the only difficulty .. |. " * ‘Wo @xperienced was occasioned: by quantities of fallen. timber caused by: -. -. fires. I observed that many, indeed most of these tremendous fires are. | - Nines : caused by lightning: and in one or two places:traced their progress where - the foot of man could neyer have trod te ee . .'v “On the 22nd of August we reached the height of land between the... - , Waters of Kananaskis River and a new river, a tributary of the Kootanie.. ~~" ' ‘River. We remained ‘here for the rest of: the'day, occupied ‘with.obser-. °’. ’ vations,. Our height above the Bow, Fort was-now 1,886 feet, ‘or'above™- *. | the sea 5,985 feet, Next morning we,commenced our ‘descent,.and for, - wo the first time we were obliged to get off and ‘walk; leading our horses. down. a_ precipitous. slope of 960 feet ‘over: loose angular. fragments-of, ‘ “ \ > Took, This ‘portion’ over, our route continued, for several days through >
aon -
~o
a : an ° hoe NT, ye faa . toe er a
“tye
2”
js
—-—--~eepted-‘my-view,-Esaw both the-Oolumbia- ihikes;; the Columbia rising out -
we
S the > Vermillion Pasi, which he deseribes a8 follows fern’
- dense masses. ‘of fallen ‘timber, destroyed by fire, where “ ‘our ‘progress . ‘ was very slow,, not. owing to any difficulty. of ‘the mountains, buton .
ee eet . . fy . . sat, ; i : rs
wae
‘account of the fallen timber, which we. had. first: to climb over and then
-- to chop througtr‘to enable. the horses! to Step | or junip over it. Wecon- ‘" . tinued at/this work from daybreak till night, and even by moonlight, , .
- Here I devoted a day to ascending gome heights : in search ‘of-a viewof the Columbia River. After climbing several t plountains i in rain, Tat last -
- face, Climbing a:high tree in order to overlook. the woods which inter- .
115° 50" W.”
and a@ length reached.the Columbig. Portage on the 27th of August.”
was ‘astonished to find ‘myself right upon the. bank of the lake from ‘which the Columbia rises, nt. height 0 ni 2,800 ‘fobt, over the sur-:
of the southern, flowing | into-the northern one,' out of Which it bends to ' ‘the westward previous to takin; ne its northern. course to the\boat' eneamp-' . ment. The most southerly © these lakeg is in lat. 50° 1? No., Jong...
The Kananaski Pass i is the one which Sir if George Simpson: ” traversed; and is described inchis: overland j journey round theo
’ world, About: fifty emigrants from Red River went through, ~
.
this pass. many: years, since, but both’ Sir George Simpson’ and
_ the.emignants made’ their 1 way to the: -Colunibia- River i in, the -. deh of the Cariboo gold: region, | °;.. |
United States: ‘territory, far 80 passing. thréugh | the aurifer rous valley of. the ‘Kootanie, little.
‘snspecting that this mountoin river would soon, be’ alive with
. seekers. ta
hy firewood.” A small. stream. “Joins: ‘the river from: ‘the west at this Pha,
“prospectors ” ‘or miners, sine its, deep | solitudes. ‘disturbed by © ‘the ‘rude and: motley tra
Dr. Heetor. travelled tion Bow ‘River to. ‘the Colima oy
ne t
me ‘aE, VERMILLION. PaS8, 98 0 i. rr
pee he
oa The site of Old Bow Fort is marked only; by 3 group of mud! ‘an
stone chimneys, . the remainder of the’ fort having been ‘constructed ' of... timber, all of which Kas long: ‘been removed and used by’ the Indians as .
7
h ON
+
which generally fellow the ou :
2 pT » =, 26 ‘and tht main stream itself makes a bend. from a north to an, easterly course. Bow Fort is 4,100 feet above the ses. - “On the 11th’ ‘August M. Bourgeau and I started and camped together about 11 miles up the valley of Bow River, on the-banks ofa Jake formed _ by a dilatation of thie river in consequerice of the valley being barred by
te
immense deposits of rounded shingle. Our road was rather a bad oné, oO,
on account of the fallen timber which impeded our path, the: valley not having been frequented by the Indians for many years. | .
4
“This first portion of the valley cuts thfough five parallel ranges of.
mountains, at right angles to their axis. hese are composed of beds of
5 , crystalline and. compact f fossiliferous limestone (most likely of carbonif- ... .
erous age) dipping at 80° to W. S. W., but having several obscure rch tions. Two well-marked peaks occur on either side of the valley,, which . M..Bourgeau named ‘ Grotto’ and ‘Pigeon ' peaks. rer 4 é “ After passing, the former of these, the following morning (havin | “"T- ° taken leave of M. Bourgeau, who remained, to-examine this’: mountain)... goo entered-a-wide “trough-like valley, 7 “Fanning: ‘to S.S.E.,-through which Tt contrived to" follow up Bow, River inthe opposite. ‘direction for three ao days. This trough continues to run through the mountains, beyond the
points. where the river leaves. and enters it; the’ latter being: between ” Doe
“* Cascade’ and-‘Rundle” mountains. ye 8
‘the.water falls,’ rises.as a series of pyecipices” to the height of 4,521 feet - _tabove a small level plain at its hase’ and is so abrupt’ that its summit is
po. "Ga view at- a<horizontal distance of 2,200 yards. It- may-be taken as a oy _ type of the’ mountains -in this portion of the chain, all being equally » precipitous’ ‘and inaccessible.. - :
passipig’at right anglés tothe chain so as to cross the ‘ Saw-back” range, which are composed of the same strata as before, but now ~alinost verti- . cal, having only a slight inclination to W.S.W. ~ fA fter following up the, valley which then «was reached, to N.W. for . three days, on the oe Larrived at *Wasile’ Mount, épposite the entrance | to'the * Vermillion !
y “> | “&Caseade’ Mount which is kno ho the Indians as; athe ‘place where ;
a Ss om’ the-Cascade. Mount the river‘valley again “ghanges its direction a
Pass. I had alfeady passed three small tributaries, :
by foliowing’up either of which, thé height of land can be crossed.to the -
Kootanie River, but judging: from indian report, none of these were 50.
promising as this one,. by. which I now resolved-to cross the water-line-
of the mountains, a ’ “The mountains now began to wear a different aspect, more massive, ,>' and. evidently much loftier. They are composed of white and pink quartzose sandstone, almiost passing into a quartzite in some parts, and _ in others into a fine conglomerate. an
Loe coe . . t . . . in iy tee :
oe QT “9 €On the ‘20th'T crossed Bow + River, -without: swimming the horses and
unloading their packs and, after a six hours’ march through thick woods, reached the: ‘eight of land the same afternoon.
“the Old."Bow Fort camp,’ to. be 300. feet, thus giving for the height of
. b ” land 940 feet. The small stream along which we had ascended here
ends in two small lakes, the water of which is beautifully clear; and 200
a yards further on, and at 17 feet above the level of’ the “upper lake, we
. came on a rapid turbid stream, flowing to,the'S.W., which was the head * ~
, ‘of the Vermillion River, the > principal branch of the Kootanie River.
-| "The: height ‘of the land'is In 51° 8” 80’ N.. longitude by account 1162 ‘1 857° WY Itis in a wide valley; between outlying shoulders of two snow- .
vale ‘..katchewan.is hardly_perceptible to -the traveller--who is -prephred for .a...
J
» .
| clad mountains, which I named’ after Mr. Ball and Colonel \Lefroy, the a latter being to the west. The ascent to the watershed from the Sas-
tremendous climb, by which ‘to reach: the dividing -ridge of the Rocky Mountains; and no labour ‘would, be required, except that of hewing
timber to construct an easy road for carts, by which it-might be attained.
‘The three following days were occupied i in the descent of Vermillion “River, which, after flowing to S.W.-by W.' for nine-miles, suddenly changes.its. course to §.E. for 18 miles, hen it. again changes to Ss
- escaping-into a wide. valley to join a much smaller stream, which i is the
‘Kootanie River. “Tn its course of about 40 miles, it descends, 1,227 “thet, so that at its junction with the main stream it is 888 feet below the Old Fort:) , “i. “It becomes-of considerable size a very short way from-its source, as "it receives large tributaries from glaciers: ‘which oceupy’the valleys of Mounts:Lefroy, Ball, and Goodsir. ‘The valley through whith it flows _ .is contracted only. at one. point — ‘The Gorge,’ near ‘its. lower part, _ where two. lofty mountains seem to close’in on the stream, without, ‘however, in reality causing ‘bny great difficulty in passing along its base.
: “By careful barometric readings I found the Fido! ‘from the river to bo. * |, 589 feet; ‘and I consider’ ‘the rise of the river, to: where I crossed it from
‘4 road for carts down the valley of Vermillion River, from the.
. height-of Jand to’ the Kootanie River, could be cleared without ‘difficulty,
“or, supposing the road to follow a straight ‘ling along*the river, and the -
descent to be uniform, which’ i almbst i AB, , the incline would only be 40° ,
“feet in a mile, or 1 in 185. “The absence of any abrupt steps, either i in the ‘ascent or descent,
. together with the small altitude to be passed over, form very favourable .
‘points | in the consideration of,this pass as a lirie ofroute. ” -~" Ascending the Kootanic’ River on the 27th, I reached-the height of
"and which divides it from one of the principal tributaries of the Comme
8 va oot. ‘ a ey Joi - ” - v * ‘
, & . at 1 + » r ae oo Oe The LY et. eel fo _ Sor, . :
eT YP eT tte eet TU de erg ee ee teh ee te
a kwete®
- River, called Beaver Foot River:
~~ of the Columbia
28° ty ; : vt ; i. = The watershed is in a large. morass, with several lakes occupying the bottom of a deep wide valley, common to the two streams, although flowing in opposite directions. The line of - .watershed is so little marked that itis impossible to cross even on foot — between the two streams without.going in water. |. ‘- °
Y ; It is on the-51st parallel of Jatitude, in longitude 117° 10” W.. On the .
north side of the valley are. Mount Goodsir and. Pyramid Mountain, and
‘on'the south is the Brisco range,\which although of no great elevation
(about .2,000 feet above the’ eye) run, as ah unbroken. wall, to S.S.E.
. My. Indian: declared that thie river we had-now struck wag the head_of™ .. the north branch of. the Saskatchewan, and wishe follow itrdown, .cbut ifmy barometer and sympiesometer were acting -With any approach
to accuracy we were now about on a level with what I had found to be_., the elevation of the Mountain House during last winter, 30 that this could °,
*
: not be the case. In addition, the change in the vegetation, especially _ the gecurrence of cedar, :convinced me that we were really on» branch "__-
‘‘\T accordingly only. followed it for two days, and on 29th reached the - »
mouth of a large tributary, to N.W. This river is much larger than the | -
Vermillion River, and about!four times the size of the stream into which . it flows, being about equal to. the south branch at the point when we..
“Teft it.
“Here I received’a severe kick in the’ chest from’my horse, rendering . me senseless, and disabling mt for some time.‘ My recovery might“huve *
- been much more tedious than it was, but for the fact-that we were now
. starving, and I found it absolutely necessary to push on after two days.
“ Where it.receives Beaver Foot, Kicking Horse River bends back on itself, including an angle of only 20°, and after passing over a fine fall ‘of
.-about 40 feet flows on to the N. W.
“The mouth of Beaver Foot River is about 318 feet below the height
" of land where we first struck it, © _ |
“As I was-quite unable to move, I sent. my interpreter, Peter Eras- | 7
“mus, to ascend Mount Hunter, which is included in the angle of Kicking
Horse River, He'ascended for 8,496 feet, and- obtained a view, to the |
-west, of snow-clad -peaks:as far as the eye ca reach. Over the tops of
Brisco's range, and all to the’ left, of S.W.; he could perceive ho ‘moun--
i
‘tains,so that if that’ portion.of ‘country is occupied by any they must -
be of very inferior altitude.
“ While traversing this valley, since coming .on the Kootanie River,
we have had no ‘trail to follow, and it did not seem to.haye been frequent- .- ,ed by Indians for fhany years, . This makes the absence of. gazaé all-the.. more extraordinary, . The only animal which seemed to occur at alt was .. . oh . . .t te t we
. 7 , - ; on fot : ane { vf
,
.
MN . . ; a Ct a
.Y
!
! i
a
99
the panther. The Indian saw on, and in the evenin we heard them calling as they skirted round our camp, attracted by the scent.
y
- .“Phe bottom of the valley is occupied by so much morass, that we “were obliged to keep along the slope, although tho fallénitimber rendered ‘it very tedious work, and severe for our-poor horses, that now had their .
legs covered by cuts and bruises.
- “Phe timber along Beaver River is mostly ‘young, but there are the
remains of what had been a noble growth of forests, consisting of cedar,
pine, and spruce, among the latter 6f which is the magnificent prusche,
which sometimes reaches four yards in circumference. ‘J also saw a few young maples (Negundo fraso.) Berries of ‘many kinds were very abun-
dant, and, indeed, had it not been for this we would haye suffered much . _ from hunger.” '’ ne . . Me .
_HOWSE'S PASS.: | on In 1859 Dr. Hector: crossed the mountains by Howse’s
“Pass, and went up the Columbia to a point within a few miles
of the Boat. Encampment, near tothe Athabasca Pass. Howse’s Pass‘is‘thus-described by Dr. Hector. ' “From the site‘of Bow Fort I followed up my track of the preceding
opposite the Vermillion Pass. Instead of crossing the watershed at this
summer, along the valley of Bow te until [reached Castle Mount,
. ‘place, the hope of. procuring game and adding to my stock of provisions, ‘to which up to this time we had’ avoided having.recourse, induced me- to get to the north-west as far as possible,. keeping on the eastern slope - .of the mountains. I accordingly passed from-the South to the North _ Saskatchewan by the Pipe Stone Pass, which is further to the east” than the- Little Fork Pass, by which I crossed this tranverse ‘divide - in the preceding ‘simmer, This’ pass follows up a small tributary to -
Bow River. from the north, and_aftér having. traversed a height of Jand
_ ‘at ‘an.altitude of about 7,000 feet/ descends-what I name the Sifleur “River to the north. branch of: the /Saskatchewan at the ‘Kootanic. plain. Here I left my Indians, as they had by their hunting added 70-1bs. to ~ . my ‘store of pemmican, and they;were now likely, fromthe natureof the -.
country I was about to traverse,’to consume moresthan they would kill. ,
' “ Altering my course to the §.W., I followed-tip the Saskatchewan.to
its source, and searched for.a pass tothe Columbia, of the existence of _
which I had been informed by:the Indians. “Choosing the middle fork,
ms
: T-found it to rise in three branches; tyro of _ which are deriyed-from immense glaciers,. while the thid ig merely a
= los Da sek
; . , oo , . eo ’ vs “ee . . = : L 80: ‘ 2“ ys . ‘
.°. small stream, issuing from’ 4 wide valley, the bottom of which is.Jevel at and heavily wooded, and without any perceptible dividing ‘ridge gives riso ' | also to a branch of the Columbia flowing to the south. , - , so “Chis height of land is at an altitude of about 4,800 feet, and isin © * , Tat. 51° 467 N., long. 117° 80¢ W. In reaching it the as¢ent.is impercep- _ tible, but the ‘Valley of ‘the great fork is closely hemmed’ by lofty preci- pices, its.--whole, width of about half a mile: being occupied by. shingle y deposits, showing that during the floods the channel of the river must —« / be of great breadth, and the valley almost impassable. vA “One of the glaciers i in which this river rises is of magnificent dimen- sions, even exceeding. those of the one at the Glacier Lake, which was | examined the ‘preceding summer. It must be .at least nine miles long” and "three wide, and’descends from the same ‘mer de glace’ that envel- opes the higher portions of: the mountains for a considerable way tothe nort - On 7th Septémber. I commenced ‘the descent to the Columbia by ween Blueberry. River,.a:stream which rapidly-increases-i ini size,-and- descends- werere about 2,000 feet’ through a very:contracted valley-in its course’ ‘of about | » Bb miles. At various.points we found traces of an old trail, Avhich ‘had evidently been out of use for many years, so that I have no doubt that . this was the pass traversed by Howse in August.1810, as laid: down in di Mr. Arrowsmith’s most recent maps. It was at that time useasa . - portage route from the east to the w ide, of the: motintaing,” but was, — abandoned -infavour-of ‘the-more-northerly route by’ the boat encamp-
‘ ment, -
“The diffictlties of descending this valley are vely € great, arising from the density of the forest growth, and the contraction ofthe valley at’ various points by rocky barriers. We were occupied nine days in de- scending a distance of 35 miles to its mouth, Which is in Jat! 51° 26‘ N,
: ong: about 117° 50’ Ww. “Where it enters 0 valley of the. Columbia iver, Blueberry River. winds*over immenége. -flatsgof rounded: Shingle,. | testifying to the amount of material brought ‘downyirom the mountains " . + by the spring floods.’ - . vA : “The Columbia at the point where we struck it is flowing to N. We about 210 yards wide, and very sluggish and deep. Its valley is from” threé‘to four miles wide, and bounded by mountains, which to its right, - rise from 8,000 to 4,000 feet above its level, but on the left are i, 000 feet , ; ower.
‘A range of low hills occupy ‘the céntre of the valley, througti which. | Blueberry River passes in deep rocky cafion before joining the’ main ° stream. “It was now my wish to follow the Columbia River down to its - great bend at the boat encampment and thence following up the valley
ve
.yf hG . - 7 con . f po a . _/ of Canoe ‘River, endeavour to’ pass ‘io the head waters of the Thompson's 8. |
/ River, and so reach British Columbia. The valley of tho river appears
4 to be' wide; and the mountains seem so open-with-rolling outline, that I / did‘ not anticipate any, great difficulty “in. following; ‘tadh a course, if it ., had ‘not been for the density of the forest. I spent Lome time in search- . ing for any trace of a trail leading in the direction I desired to to follow, but failed, as the Shooshewap Indians who inhabit this region of country . travel solely by canoes, and keep the very few horses which they possess in the neighbourhood of the Upper Columbia Lakes.” ae “There appears to be little doubt that with the tuse of the axe " a party could ‘without difficulty make their way with horses, if hot-with carts from the point where Dr. Hector returned: frgm_ the - Columbia, after having one through Howse’s Pass, (or. _..._..what..would be better. still, through- Vermillion-Pass,)- -towards-~ -=,,- as the Boat “Encampment and the mouth of: Canoe River. The - - Columbia is navigable with boats far- above this point, and - Canoe River comes from the boundary of the present: known’
» ‘limits of the Cariboo gold region, and there is every proba- © bility that it is also auriferous:~ Canoe River and its valley °° must become an all important point, for it leads directly to
“the Cariboo country. It has been visited, and part of it de-. 7 scribed by Mr. Ross in his “ Fur Hunters.” He visited this
’. yiver from the She-waps on the Thompsoui River,coming across |. the’ land,,in 1816. Canoe River is 40 yards. broad at its mouth. . _
All the passes through the Rocky. Mountains, with the - single- exception of the “Vermillion Pass, aro distinguished by-a. gradual slope. to :the. east and an abrupt and-difficult <*> *. descent to the west. This. fact points out the VERMILLION, =< Pass as the one which ‘will probably be ultimately adépted as = & Waggon route across the mountains, . Although Howes B
ve
gS
.7 ot fk CY
’ Pass is s much. obstructed with timaber, yet it possesses one :
advantage—the road to it lies through ‘the valley of the North? |
‘ Branch of the Saskatchewan, and it may be approached ‘by the northern:or wood route,- via Carlton, Edmonton, and
ce
Rocky Mountain House. For a distance of seventy miles of | -
its course through the mountains, this great river flows in. a / wide valley deeply filled with drift, which, by the way, is, very
' probably highly auriferous, as gold has been found in several * _ Jocalities, On the banks of the North Branch in the nioun-
tains there is always level ground owing to the deep drift, and - it sometimes expands into wide plains, as the Kootanie Plains,
_ where. pasturage is good and game very ¢ abundant... The vale
-~“Jey of thé North Branch cuts through the mountains more -Girectly than that of the South Branch, ‘and i ia accordingly.
* much shorter.
THE KOOTANIE PASS.
parallel, is through a very poor’ country, between longitudes
109° W. and 118° 40’. - It is‘a level; sandy, arid plain, with’
‘little water, and even that doubtful supply, brackish.- The herbage i is poor and scanty. ‘The Kootanie Pass is practica-. ‘ble for horses, and is frequently 1 used, being approached from, -.Bow Fort; if is not so good as the ‘Kananaski or Emigrant Pass. One trail from it leads to Kootanie Post,in the United
The direct approach to the Kootanie Pass, near, ‘the 49th
States Territory, another trail goes tip the Kootanie River and _ :
thence tothe Columbia by the Columbia: Lakes}: and a third. :
‘to Flat Bow Lake and thence to Fort Shepherd... The coun-
try between the Kootanie River ‘and. Flat Bow: Lake is very’
83 ae - “favourable for a road, but is much obstructed at the present time ‘with fallen and-burnttimber. There are no sudden rises or descents, and were it not.so near the boundary line, and . 80 far removed from the accessible portion of British Colum- — play it would probably become .a-valuable line of communica- . “; ‘tion, It is, however, 200 miles south of the Oariboo Gold ° Region. — me . The leading dimensions of the Kootanie ‘Pass are stated by - ~ Captain Blakiston to be approximately as follows: 2
The extremity of the Kootanie Pass on the east side of the Rocky Moun-: -.- tains is 40 and on‘the west side 18 English miles to the northward of the ~~~ . international boundary. “Its length is 40 geographical or nearly 47 English ___......._miles, extending from longitude 114° 84” to 115° 24” west: It leayes'the
ov
Saskatchewan Plains where they have an- altitude of about 4,000 feet above the sea, rises 2,000 feet to the watershed of the mountains, . ‘descends to Flathead River, again to an altitude of 4,000, follows up this river to its head waters, then crosses's’ precipitous ridge, reaching of an altitude.of 6,000 fect; it then descends the great western slope, fall- " ing’ 2,000 fect in two miles of horizontal distance, after which, by 8 | : nearly uniform grade of 100 feet per geographical mile; it gains the | ~ Tobacco Plains at the point where the. Wigwam branch. enters Kootanie . “= or Elk River. ee '. “On the Kananadlt cor Lake River.are the remains of many wooden . carts which were abandoned by 4 party of emigrants fromi. Red River . Settlement, under ‘the late Mr. James Sinclair, on their way to the : Columbia in 1854, who found ‘it impossible to drag them further intothe == mountains. “This pass follows the course of the river’to its source, and’ oa is the one ‘by which Sir George Simpson, governor of the territories-of © | ._,, . the-Hudson’s Bay Company, : as well as another party. of emigrants, pom “.\ ¢rossed the Rocky Mountains in 1841. os 7x. OM ‘The forests consist of: ‘apruce, a small pine, also a few balsam poplar , ; and aspen. In travelling through. these mountain forests, the greatest . Obstruction is the fallen timber, which, lying about in ail directions, : * : causes much .exertion to the‘horses; and confines them to a slow. pace.” During the traverse Capt, Blakiston. ‘noticed the devastating effects of a .. ‘tempest: “numbers of trées’ had been blown down; and many broken shortoff,- The work of.destruction had evidently been of that year, hut,
there. were also” signs 0 of former work of the. Bame character.”
~ ethos at
t a“
I. THE ATHABASCA PASS This is the most: northern pass practic able for horses ; it is.
“very abrupt on the western side, and leads tothe mouth of
- Canoe River or Boat Encampment. It may be approached
from ‘Rocky Mountain House, from which place 1 Hudson’s - Bay Company's trail leads to and through it. Mr. J. Miles went ~ "through this Pass ‘on horseback as far. as Boat Encampment
in 1854, but he describes: vit ag '«yery hard riding.” ” Although. - this Pass leads directly to Canoe River, the nearest’ approach |
' to the Cariboo region, yet the country by which it is approach-
ed is thought not’ to be go favourable nor. so short ‘as the _Bpproach to the Howes’s or the Vermillion Pass. -
Ar full doseription is given of the’ “Athabasca Pass in “Rose? a
“Tur Hunters.” He traversediti in the spring when the snow |
- was deep, also on returning on horseback. ‘here is an im-.
mense difference’ between ‘the journe ‘in Spring and in.
, ‘Autumn. , Wien the snows melt the rivers are full, the rocks 7 are slippery, melting ice meets the eye in all directions, ‘and.’
everything is cold, wet and comfortless. “In autumn ‘or the
.. close of summer all is changed. For foaming: torrents. you have rippling brooks; for cold, storms and clouds, a bright .
clear-sky and warm genial nights ; 3 ico and ‘snow far above on” the mountain: : tops. ,
«To, give,” he says, “gy dorrect “idea of this part of our journey let ‘the reader picture in his own mind a dark narrow
defile, skirted.on one side by-a chain of inaccessible moun- tains, rising té o great: héight, covered ‘with’ snow, ‘and slip-.. pery with ice from their,tops down to the waters edge... And. . on the other side a beach comparatively low, but.studded in”
f / /
-
e
t
ay
- aw we BB . an irregulax. “magi standing and falle trees, rocks and | ice, and fall: Of drift-wood,, -over which the: rreht, everywhere ape -rusheg-with uel irresistible impetuosity at very.few would daré'to, adventure themselves 3 dn the stréam. Let him again, ,
7 _ imagine a rapid river: déscending from som height, SS - filling up the whole channel betwoes/rocky precipices on the * ©... south and the no less’ dangerous’ batrier.on the north. And. oe
'. + lastly, let him suppose that we were obliged to make- our way . on foot against such a torrent, b crossing’ and re-crossing ‘it in all its turns and windings frém morning till night, up to the middle in water, and he w}ll understand that we have not. " exaggerated the difficulties ; o be overcome jin; crossing the ~~~" Rocky “Mountains? fn en eee Such is the descriptior given ‘of part -of -the- -Athabasea. ', Pass inthe Spring. Ross says that at the proper season the Athabasca Pass can be;travelled from ene end to the other on” ~ horseback, with the’ exception of one ‘or: two Steps on the -.Grand Céte. c - ‘The following enumeration . shows all the: known passes i ‘in
..the Rocky’ Mountains,. between the plains of the Saskatche: Soe - wan and British Columbia :— : 1. Cow Dung Lake Portage, or “ Leather Pies” se eaes . Latitude Bae, 0” ~ 2. Boat Encampment or. original Athabasca Portage.. © “ . 58°. 07 8. Howse’s Pass. .i ses e cece cease eee ene sere eens + 61° 457 4, Kicking Horse Pass, from: South Branch to the | en 2 Columbia... ... ccc ee ee ee ec eee nes “br 257 5. Vermillion Pass, from South Branch to ‘the Koota-" o . Die River... cc. c cee tee eee tae eee ene “ B18 10” - 6. ‘Kananaski or Eniigrant Pass, from South Branch to i toe 74 50° 40%."
the Kootanie River. cence nec cee nee eetnnees . %, Crow Nest Pass. ; see wale % - 49° 407 : + 8. Keotanie Pass ...... seteeeeee peseess : “749%, 257
Sol.
86 ‘To these may be added : From the Kootanie River to the Columbia, the Lake Pass and Beaver Foot Pass; from ‘the — ©”South Branch of the Saskatchewan to the North Branch, the Littie Fork Pass and the Pipe-stone Pass, The ‘following are the altitudes of the principal passes above ,
. the sea :— ee _ Le: z Kicking Horse PASS. eee cece nee Stee Above the Sex’ 5,420 foot + Vermillion Pass. ........ cece eee tence ge 4,944 Kananaski Pass......... 600 e005 Nebw ec eeas we 5,985 Kootanio Pass......0......000055 Ceeeaee “ 6,000 *
THE NORTHERN ROUTE via- EDMONTON AND ROCKY Looe _-MOUNTAIN- HOUSE. -—-=---—---*-- Be
Starting from Fort. Ellice, this. route passes through the beautiful scetery of the Touchwood Hills by a well’ beaten . trail, and thence on to the. South Branch of the Saskatche-
wan, ‘south of the Lumpy Hill of the Woods, shown on the -
map. The river there is deep and; ‘rapid, but not more than
- 180 yards broad. It cannot- -be forded, but’ supplies can be
ferried across by means of. a temporary boat made out of & cart wheel, or two tied together, and oil cloths.’ The horses will swim across without. trouble. The carts must be floated and towed across. The distance from Fort Ellice to the crossing of the South Branch is about 280 miles, or 516 from Fort ‘Garry. The road is excellent, wood and ‘water abundant,
- and-‘in.the Touchwood Hills; ‘and north and west of them,:
_ Appelle, as the Qu’Appelle crossing is. had, the riyer being
ducks and geese are innumerable. If this route is ‘selected, the - _
Assinijoine should be- forded: above the 2 _mouth of the. ‘Qu’-
N i re deep. and the, banks muddy. . It will probably, bq unnséessary 7 ; to touch at Carlton, no advantage i is to be gained by doing so | except assistance in crossing the North Branch of thé se - _ / katchewan; if the north side should. be preferred to the foute. ..
by the- Eagle. Iills, From Carlton thore is a Hudson Bay - “ ; 5 - Company’ 8 trail all the.way to the Rocky “Mountain House, ~ | in via Fort Pitt and Edinonton.., It lies chiefly on,the north side | a "of tue river, and is the safest route, as the Blackfeet do not =: generally cross the river, buf i din the summer keep to! the open _ Plains following the buffalo; ‘The roufe by Battle River to *- Rocky Mountain House is much'thé shortest,’ but Battle J River _. -is-frequented.-by- Blackfeet nd. ‘Plain. Cred. Indians, and it... would be desirable, if. possible, to: ‘procure ay guide’ at, Edmon- ton or at the R. C. Mission at St.Ann,'fifty miles west of Edmonton. From Edmonton the jroute | qrould lie to ‘Rocky “Mountain House and thence to the seldoted pass, the most =. - favourable being the Vermillion Pass. } I ee It is to be observed that Rocky Mountain House. is not . tenanted during the summér months. Edmonton i is a large establishment, and the residence of a chief factor of the Hud- son Bay Company.’ In 1859 it numbered 40 men, 30 women, | - and 80 children: «St. Ann is a village of free men’ containing .
- about 45 houses. Rocky Mountain’ ‘House i is about 100 miles . from-the main chain of ‘the mountains, ‘but their snow-clad peaks are visible from it. A subordinate range | is 45 miles: .from the post, and the. country between the two pointsis
“densely. covered with a pine forest, through which Dr. Hector vainly endeavoured to penetrate, aa \ oN.
eo.
ao
38
TE INDIAN, TRIBES OF THE SASKATCHEWAN | *VALLEY. .
-It.is of some importance that travellers through the Sas-
katchewan plains should be familiar with the number; habits,’
and. character of the Indians they may chance to meet: There is far less:to fear from these wandering tribes, than is gene- rally supposed, ‘if they are approached without any signs of - alarm, and treated with respect and reasonable consideration.:"
The Plain or Prarie Indians belong to the following principal tribes :
e . Blackfeet, Crees, ‘ . . Bloodies, «= | ‘Assiniboines, ~ - Piegans, ', . Sioux. ,
ties
Fall Indians, or. + Gros Ventres... cee ee ee eee ee
?
———— "mS Wood Indians of the Saskatchewan - Valloy belong to the great’ _
_ family of Crees and Ojibways. The Sioux, Blackfeet,” Bloodies, ond ” Piegans are Dakotahs,
Mr. Harriet, a chief factor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who had passed his life among the Blackfeet, estimated the six.or seven tribes . going by that general 1 name as maustering 1,600 to 1,700 tents, at’ eight - per tent, 13,000,
Mr. Rowand, one of the oldest resident traders, estimated the Black feat tribes as ‘follows :— :
? Blackfeet proper:. : -e- 800 woe Piegans ........... - : eee» 400 wo Bloods .......- 02. eee elec eee ceces ‘edeueaae teeaece 250 - . _ Gros Ventres, or ait Todiana 2222021200003 eae . 400°. | . Circees sete eee ceca cegeeaeees teneee Mae eaeeee eee AB - ’ ‘Cotones vt en ‘Sinall Robes 7 Mountain Tribes tetteeeneer ges cae - At 8 persons per tent’ 18, 000... seeeeeeee Seda ceee 1645 tent.” “The Assiniboines are divided into Strongwood and Plain n Assiniboines, _ or Stonys. - “Mr. Harriet; in 1842, “estitnated the
Strongwood ‘Assiniboines eee eeee . at 80 tents = ' 640: “Mr. Rowand, the ¢ Plain Assiniboines “ 300 tem 2,400
“880 tents: — 8 8,020
ae
antl
89
' The Strongwood Crees about Edmonton - z ‘ y | | Mr, Rowand estimated at,..... 400° tonts, at 10 per. “taht = 4, 000
Crees of the” Plains ....04...¢4. * 200 “ pe ,000 oe
* . 6,000 . ‘On the North ‘Branch of thé: Saskatchéw: an, where the Prairie Indians ; assemble, the following o enumeration is given in the Parliamentary Blue °*
.
Book :— . : ; : / _ No. of Indians, Edmontan Lecce snr ce eee eset eres seaacens 7,500 * C Carlten- eee e cence eens “alae eceeeceees Thee ene -5,000 7 Fort Pitt... 0... cece ene reece r eee eneens 7,000 , Rocky Mountain House .........cccce seers enes 6,000
On the west side of the: Rocky Mountains are the Koota- _ nies, the Flatheads.and the Shoushaps.-:" a ~~ “ihe Kootanied ate not a naniérows tribe : they a ‘are aia” vey honest and brave, but peaceable towards the whites ;. their |
chief enemies ate the Blackfeet. ° The Kootanies cross the.“ ~ Rocky. Mountains every year in the spring and_ fall-tobunt — a ‘buffalo, and cure the meat for their wint -stipplies. They: 0°” are rich in horses, and not unfrequently ¢rade with the Black-" “.
feet.. Nearly all the Kootanies dre’ Roman Catholics. . Capt:
Blakistori says,—‘ They “are perfectly. ‘Honest, and “do not
beg, “qualities which I have never yet-met. with in “any
: Indians.” The Flatheads seldom ‘evme north of the 49th
: - parallel. “he Shoushaps travel on the pper part of Frazer’s * - River, and on the north fork of the Columbia ; they have os " generally conducted themselves peaceabl towards the-whites, _
-. and it is with these Indians that a party. crossing the moun- «tains of the Vermillion Pass would come in contact as S they” approached’ the Cariboo gold diggings... “The Blackfeet arg 2s like their neighbors.the Stonys and the Crees; great thieves-. 3; > Capt. Blakiston, thus describes the. Blackfeet be e
; . . , - _ = 7 we, = in
bee
“ On the 10th of September I turned my face towards Fort Edmonton, the previously appointed winter quarters of the ‘expedition, which lay more than thre hundred miles to the north, and as will be secen*on the plan, passed .several “creeks, and over a country mostly prairie. I. remained at’ the Forks of Belly River £ Sunday the 12th. ‘From this, -
«place [visited a camp of forty-five tentS of Blackfoot Indians, accompa- nied by one of my menvnnd ‘James,’ the -Cree Indian. I was received with the usual hospitality, and having’ expressed ‘a desire to change & horse or two, I had no trouble the fallowing morning in exchanging one “and buying another for ammunition, tobacco, blankets, old coat, &c.
" This tribe has the credit of being .dangerous, but'what I,have scen. of * them, F consider thém far better. behaved than their more civilized neigh- “~~ | bors the Crees. I inade it a rule never to hide from Indians, and, although I had but a Small-party, to go to them as-soon-as I knew of “---—=- their proximity. ~I also always” told them gr what réason the British “~~ Government had sent the ‘expedition to the'country; and I never failed . + to receive manifestations of good-will, neither was there one attempt made te steal my horses, a practice too prevalent among ‘the Indians of these plains.” : - ; :
‘
The Piegah Indians alone of all the tribes met by. Dr. Hector showed any disposition to be “more than importunate.”’
oy ~
1
. THE CLIMATE OF, THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
* On. the 18th September, 1858, Dr. Hector encountered:
‘- several snow storms on the Upper.Columbia, when searching
» for a trail up that river towards the Frazer, in the direction of
", Canoe River, a-most important tract of. country, connecting as_ before stated, the Plains of the Saskatchewan directly with the Cariboo gold diggings by the Howse's Pass or the Kicking
. >
"Horse Pass and the Vermillion Pass.-
“The winter of 1858-9 was ‘unusually severe, as far as the quantity,
. of snow is‘concerned, and ‘yct the average depth of snow, when undis-
' turbed, as in the woods; was only about eight. to twelve inches through- out a large district between Battle River and the North Saskatchewan at Edmonton. ‘Towards’ tho. mountains, in a south-west direction, the -
. , : a ° . Soe, les we
‘
er oo, we
~ quantity i is stil less ; but during the early part of April, after the snow . had nearly disappeared from Edmonton, a seriés of storms from the north
» Visited the neighbourhood of Fort Pitt, so that in the middle of April o . there were from three to four feet of snow on the ground. "—Hector. : -~
Tt is the belief,” says Dr. Hector, “that the ColumbiaVal- - “
ley i is continued to the north, following. the. course of Canoe River that makés me so sanguine that by this route a passage: could be effected into the valleys of either Thompson or Fra.
-, Zer Rivers.” As far South as 51°N. this great -valley is traversed with difficulty, on account of the apruce forests, which. are. Esa, northern, character. “After. passing a bend ee which occurs in this latitude, the forest’ suddenly assumes a. Californian aspect, free from underwood, and with stretches a of open prairio.clothed with bunch grass.
‘During the first week in September, 1858; "Capt, Blakiston crossed the mourttains of the Kootauie’ Pass. He- found snow two feet deép 6,000 feet ahove’ the sea, level. The fol-
_ "Towing i is his description of the journey:— ; oe
@ oy
4 After two or thieo miles we began a steep aseént, and were soon on ground entirely covered with snow, in which the tracks of the-Kootanies who had gone before us were visible. We passed along the édge of a very steep hill»and-it was ds much as the horses or-ourselves could do in some plades,to keep footing, -We now descended, crossed a thickly . wooded gully, and then commenced the ascent to the water-shed through thick woods. The snow increased in depth as we ascended, until, on ar- rival af the crest, it was two feet on.the Icvel, and in places heaped up to double that depth. . It’ was cold work trudging through the snow in thin « leather moccasins without socks; -and, to make mattets worse‘it was | blowfg and snowing all the time.._I, however, on arriving at the water- \ shef, with the assistance of the Indian’ ‘James,’ whom | always found. most willing,.unpacked the horse with the instrument boxes, .and ob- tained a reading of thé barometer, which gave an altitude of 6, 080° feet. ‘We ascended along the ridge about 100 feet more, and then by a zig-zag
, track ommenced a deep descent. It was not, however, very. bad, and x netived at a- small‘ mountain. torrent flowing, castwand,, thas
Some! - telly
BB
t
7 regaining: thio waters of the Atlantic after an ‘absence of sixteen days. The trail continued mostly through woods down the valley du¢gecast. The rocks on the tops of the mountains on either side-were often of very 1” - curious shapes, and the: strata in places- much contorted; there were’: alsé some magnificent cliffs, and thie cascades ‘of snow water falling, down cc the narrow gullies added motion | to, the grandeur of the scene. “The snow gradually decreased as /we descended. On arriving atthe spot . where the'valley joins another‘I'found the Indians camped on a patch of prairie, where I was glad enough. to ‘let my horse free, as wre Had travel- led this day from six to six, with ahalt of only” 14 hours.”
Jn 1859 Capt. Palliser crossed thdlitootonie'P: “Pass and ¢ en-. countered, a heavy snow storm on; ‘the 8th September a at the: pein ~height- of: land. --2 Oe
, - In- 1858 Dr. Hector had devere weather on and about the " 8c. Séptember at Kicking arse’ Pass. On the 8th Septem- ber, when ascending the Soutli Branch, near its head waters, - the mountains on each side wete covered with snow, ‘those ‘on the south side having their valleys covered with glaciers, some of great sizé? At the water-stied, 6,347 feet Above the level "of the sea, snow was lying under the shade of trees, notwith- standing thé clear mid-day sun. ‘ ‘East of: the mountains, in lat. 52° 20’ N ., Several ‘inches of _ " snow fell in the last week of September, ‘and inthe first week of October snow’ fell between Rocky Mountain Hotise and Edmonton to the depth of 18 inches, ae mo «Along the eastern base of the Rocky Mouintains there'i isa narrow tract close to them where there are never more than. - afew inches of snow on the ground, and the: rivers ‘wheh rapid ‘," ° remain open daring the winter. ° In consequence of this a few hee ducks are found to linger throughout the whole season.in the : qonntsine, while from-the’ Plain Country, it inf latitudes mach
ge
te 48
farther south, they are necessarily absent frem October’ til May. Forty miles east of the mountajns the snow-fall is \ much increased, but during the depth of winter rarely exceeds - " two feet.”’* 9 - =. | . ; a, “The weather experienced in the’ ‘Rocky’, Mountains was tee very irregular, with great daily range of temperature. - Thus, in the end of August the thermometer during the night was.as low as 14° at-an altitude of 6000 feet, and -almost. :
_every night. it fell considerably below the freezing point, - yy although “during the day it often reached 70° to 80°. In the ~~ ‘valleys of the eastern slope the amount of rain-fall is very. small compared to that on the first partof the descent tothe’ we west, when fine weather is the rare exception éven'in Sep- ‘
tember. This only applies, however, to the mountains north
of the fifty-first parallel of latitude, south of; which, for some _ “reason, the rain-fall-on the western slope in the valley of the , ‘Kootanie River must be much less, judging both from ‘the ex- ; perience of two seasons and from the nature of the vepeta-
tion, which is of the arid type. :
’ “ On the eastern slope, througHout the entiré summer, there . >. are occasional falls of snow at altitudes above 5000 feet ; but snow never lies deeply at any season. It. is only.on the va-~". rious ‘ heights‘of land’ which have an altitude of from 6000
to 7000 feet, and for the first few miles of the western descent; that-snow appears to accumtilate i in the valleys in large quan- tities—sometimes to the depth of 16, to 20 feet, a
“Dr. Hector on the Physical Features of the central, pat of British N orth America. -Edin. New Phil Journal - .
s , ot . . . .
¢
. 44 THE CANOE ROUTE TO.RED RIVER.
The project of a direct line of communication between Canada and the valley of the Saskatchewan, entire] ly through ; British territory, engaged the attention of the Canadian gov- ernment ‘during the years 1857-8 ‘and 9.- Since that period the question has been allowed to remain ir abeyance, and no steps have been taken to open any one of the different routes explored, or to encourage private ‘enterprise in this important undertaking. The Inactivity af the Canadian government “has no doubt arisen in great part from the “andefined position and status of the proposed new Colony between Canada’ aid . British Columbia. The Imperial government have not’ yet taken any steps to organize the valley‘of the. Saskatchewan into a separate, Colony, and: if still remains under the juris. diction of the Hudson Bay Company. vs .
The extraordinary discoveries of gold in British Columbia, must ‘soon lead to the adoption of some form of government for the petple- inhabiting the valley of the Saskatchewan, as well as to the opening of a direct line of communication across the continent through British Territory. Such a com-
_ Inunication does “in fact exist, but it is only capable of being.
Corny
used during: the summer months, and at the best affords but a ~
tédious and expensive mode of travelling through the wilder-
ness. which separates‘Lake Superior from Red River. The = expenditure of a comparatively | small sum of money, when the
great object in view is taken into consideration, would enable
the communication to be made with ease and expedition, and |
the works would bea necessary preliminary. to a general route capable of being used throughout the ‘year. -
- 465 At present this communication is only available during.the ‘season of navigation, | but there are many important facts which-are daily coming to light reapecting the north shores of Lakes Huron and Superior, and maj y_developments taking place which will render the winter communications through ‘these apparently inhospitable“Wwastes a commercial. necessity, ; before many years have passed away. ‘There are three canoe routes which have been surveyed a “between Lake Superior and Rainy Lake. The first.is the . ° “--- -- 9ld- Nor-West- Company’s-route,-via-Pigeon- River,. -and the. -- boundary line between the United States and Canada. The . °°’ second is the Kaministiquia route,.via the Savanne Portage, Milles Lacs and Sturgeon Lake, followed by the Hudson’s Bay Company. The third is the one surveyed by: Mr. Simon Dawson, via Dog Lake, the Savanne Portage, Milles Lacs, : . and the River Seine to Rainy Lake. | ae ‘In view of a ‘permanent communication across the conti-~ nent, to be constructed entirely through British territory, the =. - Pigeon River route is. open’,to the objection, that it lies on the boundary. line, an objection which at the juncture will be considered: insuperable: The Seine route is shorter and no doubt superior to that by Sturgeon Lake, it also possesses the great advantage that it.is not only removed somé, distance * from the boundary line, but it lies in the direction of a land communication north of. the. deep’ indents of Rainy Lake, which. will be ultimately ‘adopted, if a land’ route, entirely through British territory, availuble at all‘seasons of the year, should be constructed. j a : The idea of a land communication between Canada and Red “,
ne aera to
ar . - . a Be ars x.
ee a nS aa
if
: t
«
46
River, passing altogether tbrough Canadian territory, is 3 for
‘, from being so visionary.as it is the fashion to represent; -as
before stated, events of singular importance are fast hastening the establishment of the route. The north: shore of Lake Turon is attracting settlers, the north shore of Lake Superior is known- to possess, immense mineral wealth, and there i every probability that\i in view of the national importance of —
"a route across the continent, in consequence of the amazing
gold wealth of British Columbia, the auriferous character of
.. the. Eastern Slope of -the-Rocky" ‘Mountains, anid’ thé yemark-~
able © fertility of. forty million acres in. the va Ney of the Saskatchewan, a British AMERICAN OVERLAND ROUTE, open throughout the year, will be an established fact within the next ten years. This route will not necessarily sppto ach, except in
‘certain points ‘the north-shores of Lakes Huron and Superior, - and it will ultimately turn to the north of the deep indents”
of Rainy Lake, cross. the Winnipeg at or near Rat Portage, and not approach the boundary line within. thirty miles. .
Some portion of the summer canoe route, via the River Seine, will probably form part of this great line of communi- - cati:n, and I shall therefore introduce an abstract, of Mr. Simon~Dawson’s suggestions in a brief description of the Canoe Routes to Red River. -
The Hudson Bay Company’s route, via-the Fort. “William atid the Kamministiquia, has been so fully deserjbed inthe |
' reports of the Canadian Red River expedition that a detailed
notice is here unnecessary. Since 1857, various improve- . men’s have been, made on the line of communication. proposed led the route, and practised’ canoe men are indispensable in ~
47: v
w
by Mr. Dawson as far as the-‘Savanne Portage, which render .
" it the most desirable route to be pursued. A guide, however,
“would be absolutely necessary for any party wishing to travel with expedition, as the beginning of the different portages are
by no means easily discovered L by those. who have not travel- if. many of the rapids, the olternative involving a portage round . them, which would greatly increase the time occupied i in mak.
ing the voyage. Assuming that canoes,- guides, and good. canoe men could be proctired without delay at Fort William,
“according | to the number of the party, the question of provis- jons is thé most serious item. Thero would be small chance of any supplies being obtained on the route, and the exertion
required induces extraordinary appetites, which must’ to.a. certain extent be satisfied or the severe labour involved can not be “long endured. A pound and a half of pork anda
7 pound of flour per man per diem, with a plentiful supply of tea is the least which would be required. A north canoe can oo
accommodate nine persons, and the voyage wo ve take twenty
-, days by the Winnipeg, and 450 Ibs.. of provisions wdalll bé
Smaller canoes carrying four or six persons aré more conve- . nient than’ north canoes, but there would be always a difficulty’
in the present, state .of affiairs in procuring -‘canbes and men
required ag the minimunf it would be gafe to oe with,
for a large party, without’ steps were taken some weeks in.
advance of ‘the opening of. navigation.: Mr. Dawson’s plan, it will be seen, contemplated a.complete organization of boats, waggons and steamers, besides: the
daming of rivers, the | opening of roads, and the poablishiient
of provision\ stores on on the line of route. .
ae , won = \: Os
oa \
— ne
‘ \«
vv . ; oO . ' ee, : oe, 7
48.
' By opening the communication ‘in the: “way proposed . by © “Mr. Dawson,’ the total distance front Lake Superior to Red os River Settlement, by land and water, would-be as follows : . ‘ Land carriago, Navigable”
/ ’ ' miles. miles.
From Thunder Bay to Dog Lake. te nletteerecees -. 28
Through Dog Lake and River to the Prairie Portage. 85°
Land road past Praigie and Savane, Portages to Sa- . vanno River ween eet ee pee eee rene t ase neeeaees Be
Through’ Savanne River, Lac des Mille Lines andthe , River/Seine to the Little Falls .......00..4.. eet ee |)
ae Broken’ navigation on River. Seine . sees aa wees oT TBO
~~ Land carriage past the twelve portages on River Seine 7 From the Seine to.tho western extremity of Lac Plat,
-navigable with only one break at Fort Francis. 208 - _ Thénce to Fort Gasry by land....... reece beetens 91 . / Total 2... eeeeesaahecqeneeees secsveves 131R 88TH ““Waggons or carts would 'bé ‘required on the road between Thunder / Bay and Dog Lake.
“On Dog Lake and River, boats such’ as are used by the Hudson's 8 Bay Company, or éven a steamer might be employed. . / * At the Prairie Portage, carts or waggons would ‘be’ necessary. . /. “On the Savanne River, Lac des Mille Lacs, and the River Seine as far as the. Little Falls, after a dam fwas constructed at the last mentioned place, there would be an unbroken reach of 65 miles, and on this section “y a it would be advantageous to have a small steamer. / . ‘On the 59} miles of broken navigation, on the River Seiné, between . the Little Falls and the Twelve Portages, boats should be used, while at the land road past the twelve portages, carts or waggons, as on ‘the other | -sections of road, would be necessary: “From the River Seine to Fort Frances a steamer would have a clear
. vn
_ run of fifty miles. ee “From Fort Frances to Lac Plat, steamers would have an uninter- ee rupted run of 158 miles. he From the latter place to Fort “Garry. no provision would have to be mo made, as the means of transport are to be had i in abundance at the Red River Settlement,"* - . . an ; * For-full particulars respecting the various routes from Lake Superior to Red River, see the “ Reports of the Red River Expedition for 1857 and 1858."
.
’ . place daring the last few years-in the govern
‘yf
a
"49
In the present state of affairs it is not advisable for any
. party desirous of crossing the continent to the gold fields of
* British Columbia, to attempt 1 the Canoe Route. The road by St. Paul is more expeditious, less expensive, and would admit © of the necessary supplies being procured without Joss of time, and far cheaper than they could be conveyed in eanoes or’
obtained at ‘Red, River Settlement. : te
oc
om
PROJECT 0 OF ‘AS ROUTE "ACROSS THE CONTINENT EN. TIRELY “THROUGH. BRITISH TERRITORY.
The region nofth of Lakes Huron and Superior has hither: .
* to. been the great. bugbear in the way of a land route across
British America. Soveral important - change have taken. vont arrange- ments for the exploration and colonization of this vast area of country, which will ultimately lead to the establishment of a great inland ‘line of communication, following in.the first in-y * stance the Colonization Roads atrétching { from the ‘settled parts
"of Canada’ towards "Lake Nipissing, and. thende’ ito Sault St.:
Marie. In order to afford greater facilities for "those ¢ who are
_ disposed to také advantage of the vast mineral wealth of the-f3- ‘North Shores, the government, by an-order it Council, dated
March 15, 1860, adopted t the following. important Regulations : z “That for mining purposes, tracts coiiprising not more than
: ee v » “also the h Reports of the Assiniboine and Saskatchewan Expedition,” and ,
. “A Narrative of the C madian Red River Exploring Expedition of 1857, -and .' Of the Assinniboine and Saskatchewan Exploring Expedition of 1838, ” by: the . Author; Tongoien & & Gs London, 1860, -
us
sen
50 ; four hundred acres each be granted to parties, applying for the same, at the rate of one dollar per acre, ‘to be paid in full - on the sale, the applicant furnishing a plan and description — _of the locality to the Crown Lands Department,-and © ‘on con- \ — dition that such’ mineral location be worked within o one year | from the date of the grant. - “The pdient to issue two years from date of sale; the fee for permiasign-to-explore is abolished, and the locations are to “be sold to the first applicant agreeing” to the conditions. ots ~ These ‘regulatioris do not apply to ‘mines “of gold or silver.’” "It is also proposed to ‘block out into Townships the whole of the mining region on Lakes Huron and Superior, opening _ well the exteriur lines’ of the townships. ‘The facilities for exploration will no doubt induce great additional efforts to de- velope the mineral wealth of that ‘country, and the opening of a road at the rear of the townships will be the commence- ment of a great line of communication connecting.the wholé > ‘ of the north ‘shores of these inland seas with the’ Colo- nization “Roads between the Ottawa and’ Lake Huron. A: surveying party. has, already been for more than a year en-' - gaged i in exploring and surveying the shores of. Lake Supe- “rior and the country in the rear, to the depth of about twenty ' five miles. The Colonization Roads are rapidly penetrating | ' ‘the wilderness, and: one of them, the Babéaygeon Road, al- ready extends to Lake Nipissing, and the tract through “ which it passes is found to contain much good-land ‘fit for-— ' settlement... The great Northern Road, extending from | Gou- lais’ Bay, cen Si River, ver, is already | located and ! _, part of it constructed. . The oinpletion will provide a means
tf
v
e a
| 51 }
_ for both winter and summer communication by Jand between
the eastern portions of Canada and ‘the rapidly ‘advancing
- settlements around.the Sault.St. Murie. The price of lands
within the limits of the territory of the Free Port at Sault
St. Marie, has been reduced to 20 cents an acre, a step which
-will probably induce a large influx of ‘emigrants adapted to
_ the industry of mines, forests, and fisheries.
The difference between the American side of Superior and + __ the north-o¥ Canadian ‘side, i is. remarkably. shown in the fole . 2... lowing tables, although the opinion is general among “ pros- =
pectors” that the mineral wealth on. the north side..is very ,
great, and the geological survey, which was.confined tothe coast and Prineipal rivers, indicates an extensive metaliferous ~”. area. : In the ‘Spring of 1860 the. white population on the north Pa Shore of Like Superior, exclusive of the Hudson Bay’s Com-
' pany’s Posts, was nine; at the same time that of the Ameri-
_ can Wide was 19,695. . The Canadian vessels engaged in trade
‘were tio steamers and ‘two schooners. On the American . 4,
steamers andl’ ‘steam-ferry-boats“ont” Patino Lake, four s steam , a “tags between White Fish Pond and Detour Channel, upwards
‘of one hundred first-class schooners, and tyo reverue cutters. .
‘The trade through the Sault Ste. Marie Canat amounted in | -~
1859 to— . oe Exports’ from ‘Lake Superior... .-+. $3,071,069 Imports, EC. seceanees peveneeee deeeceoes feseoee 5,228,640 of Passengers...caeseessees itug sevens eeeseese 11,548, .
: At . . pew mo 4 ‘ . . .
= |
" ih. ss ; he American mines are not on the coast, ‘the nearest being’ 2} miles distant, the greater number 12 to 14 miles’ from’the-~’ waters of the lake. The “ancient mines of Lake Superior”.
. have been found on the north shore, at Mamanise and .on the: i Island of St. Ignace. On the American side, deep and nar- 7 row depressions, ‘the ‘remains of the works of the ancient mi-.
"ners are nvimerous, and vast numbers of native green-stone hammers, from 5 pounds to 39 pounds in weight, are con-. stantly dug up in these depressions, besides copper chisels,
~ sleepers “of “oak, -charcoal;- spear-heads-and- knives of- copper... ... On the Canadian shore of Lake Huron, the success of the proprietors of the Wellington Mine is very encouraging. The-~~ dividend for 1859’ being £6,850, the capital invested £20, 000. The new regulations established by the Canadian government in relation to minin g locations throughout this extensive region, is already attracting the attention of Americans, and rapid settlement of several’ very promising locations is more than ‘probable. During the season of navigation the facilities for reaching any port of Lake Superior by steamer are such that a vessel from Liverpool, of a capacity fitted to go through the locks of the Welland Canal may discharge _ her.cargo at ~- Fort William or any port on this vast inland sea without breaking bulk.. Hence, for a summer communication, say from May to November, the starting point of the Overland Route would be Fort William or some other port on Lake Superior. : -
} ' The next step in the overland communication through | Brit-_ - ish Amerjen is from Lake Superior to the Settlements on
The water partin is not. more than 590 feet
. . ‘ ‘ a . a
oe - 6B . _ Nps Valuable trees, as far as the-Lake of the Woods, There does, * not exist any difficulty in the construction of a road ‘between . — : Thunder Bay and the most easterly indent.of Rainy, Lake, a distance of 200 miles. Between Rainy Lake and the north- west atigle of the Lake of the Woods the country in the rear~ of Rainy: River, a distance of 120 miles, is unexplored, ‘and ~ "its facilities fox|a direct. land communication unknown. From the north-west -corner to Fort: Garry, 90 miles, js a level . country 1 which has already been travelled with horses, although. oe _ the swamps near Lac Plat are farmidablo. ‘The third step is. — - the e_ valley ‘of the Saskatchewan, which ‘even in its present : state is constantly traversed’ with horses and carts from Red “River to the Rocky Mountains, and contuins not Jess_than” “FORTY. MILLION acres-of excellent -agricaltural goil, which { form’ a vast Furticd Bevtfrom the Lake of the: Woods.to the © __-- Rocky Mountains. _ Hoo, i
t
, THE FERTILE, BELT-IN THE “VALLEY OF THE , SASKATCHAWAN. . 7
, he basin: -of Lake ; “Winnipeg: extends over twenty-eight ~~ a
. degrees of longitude atid ten degrees of latitude, The éleva- tion of its eastern ‘boundary. at the Prairie-Portage, 104 miles. west of Lake Superior; i8~ 1,480 | feet above the sea, and the . “ height. of land at thé’ Vermillion Pass is less then 5,000 feet - above the same level. The mean length ‘of this great inland , basin is about 920 ‘English miles, and its mean breadth 850 : .
’. miles, hence its’ area is approximately 360, v00 Bquare miles, ‘ ‘or a little more than that of Canada.
- 64 Lake Winnipeg, abn altitude of 628 feet above the sea,
occupies the lowest: depression of this great inland<basin, covering with its associated Lakes Manitobah, Winnepego-
_ sis, Dauphin, and St. Martin, an area slightly exceeding
13,000 square miles, or nearly half as: ‘much of the earth’s surface as is occupied by Ireland. - - ‘
e
The outlet of. Lake. ‘Winnepeg’ is. through-the- contracted vows
and rocky channel of: ‘Nelson River, which flows into Hud-. son’s Bay.
The country possessing a 1 mean elevation, of one, ‘hundred feet above lake*Winnipeg is very closely represented by t the - outline of Pembina Mountain, forthing part of the eastern”
limit of the Cretacedus Series in the north-west of America. & A
‘The'atea occupied by this low country, which includes Be large part of the valley of Red. River, :the Assiniboine, and Ne the main Saskatchewan, may be estimated Jat 70,000 ‘square — miles, of which nine-tenths are lake¥, “marsh, or surface rock
-of. Silurian or Devonian age, and generally: so thinly covered
with soil as to be unfit for cultivation, except in small isolated: areas. ’ ff
. gt’
Succeeding this low region there are the narrow terfinges Oe
‘the Pembina Mountain, which rise in abrupt steps, except a ‘the valleys of the Assiniboine, Valley River, Swan “River,!,:
\ and Red-Déer’s River, to the level of a higher plateau, whose ©
eastern limit is’ formed by the precipitous escarpments. a
of the Riding, Duck, and Porcupine Mountains, with the de-.
‘ “tached outliers, Turtle, Thunder, and Pasquia Mountains,
This is the great Prarie ‘PLATEAU. of Rupert’ 8 Land ; at # =
’ "toe
e- “
>
_ area’of the Prairie Plateau, in the” ‘past of Lake Winnipeg, ’ "js. about 120,000 square miles; it possesses a mean elev ation . of 1,100 feet above the sea. : .
‘ . . .
65 ‘f
“bounded” towards the south-west: and . west, by the “Grand
Coteau de Missouri and the extension of the table Jand be- .
“tween the two branches of the Saskatchewan, which forms
the eastern limits of the Puatns of the north-west. --The
“The ‘plains rise’ gently: as the Rocky. Mountains « are re aps proached, and at their western limit have an altitude of 4000 . feet above the sea level. With only @ very narrow belt of 2 intervening country, the mountains ‘rise abruptly from the : plains, and present lofty precipices that frown like. battle-- ments over the level country to the eastward.* The average. . altitude.of the highest part of the Rocky Mountains is 12,000 (about lat. 51°) feet. The forest extends to the altitude of 7000 feet, or 2009 feet above the lowest pass.
The “Frrtice Bexr” of arable soil, partly the form of. rich, open prairie, partly covered with groves of aspen, which ' stretches from the Lake of the Woods to the foot of the Rocky . Mountains, and is coloured yellow on thé accompanying map,
_ averages 80 to 100 miles in breadth. The North Saskatche-
"Wan ‘flows ‘through the Fertile Belt, in ‘2 valley varying from °-
one-fourth. of a “mile to one mile | in. _ breadth, and? excavated
to the depth of” 200 to 300 feet below the level of the prairie
~
or plains, until it .reaches the low country some miles east of Fort a laCorne. The area of this: extraordinary, belt of rich soil and pasturage is about forty millions acres... It was for- . Wo
* Dr. James Hector on the Physical’ features of ths" central i part of rth - North America. . Edin, Nat, Phil. Journal.
\ ‘ \ . : rae
merly a wooded country, but by successive fires it ‘has’ been partially cleared of its forest’ growth, but abcunds with the
most luxuriant herbage and generally possesses a deep and
rich soil of vegetable mould. ““‘ This region in winter is not more severe than that experienced in Canada, and in the west- ern districts, which are removed from the influence of the
Great Lakes, the spring commences about a month earlier _ ~ than on theshores of Lake™ Superior, which ig five degrees of ~
latitude further to t1e south.- * * * -* The depth of snow is never excessive, while in the richest tracts the natu- ral pasture is so abundant, that horses and cattle may be deft
to obtain their own’ 1 food during the greater part of the win- ter.”*
The Fertile Belt- of the Saskatchewan. Valley does not derive its importance from .the bare fact’ that it contains 64,000 square miles of ' country available for agricultural purposes in one continuous strip 800 miles long and. on an average 80 broad, stretching across the continent; it is rather ‘by contrast with an immense sUB-ARCTIC area to the north and DESERT area to the south that this favoured. “Edge of the Woods” country-acquires political and commercial importance: A broad agricultural region, capable of sustaining many mil-_ lions of people and abundantly supplied with iron ore and an - inferior variety of coal, and spanning the eight: hundred miles which separate Luke Winnipeg from the Rocky Mountains, - more than compensates for the rocky character of the timbered ~ desert, between the Lake of the Woods and Lake Superior.
* Dr. ‘Fames Hector on the Capabilities for Settlement of the Centrah part ' of British North America, : a .
4 7 a Le pee
~ tivable not only from aridity of climate: but from sterility of .
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57°. 7
. Capt. Palliser thus describes ie Fertil Belt :—“Itis now a -
partially wooded country, abounding in lakes and rich natu- ral pasturage, in some parts rivalling the finest park scenery
of our own country.’ Throughout this Yegion of country the — climate seems to preserve the same character, although it” passes through very differ, ides, its form’ being doubt-"
less- determined--by- the- curves-of: #he--isothermal-line.---Its -
superficial ,extent embraces about 65;000 square miles, of which more\than one-third might be’ considered as’ at once available for\the purposes of the ariseait\ ho “ Great American Desert,” which stretches from the south branch of the Saskatchewan to the Gulf of Mexico, is altogether uncul-
soil. ‘ - :
The physical geography of the arid region in the, United |
States has been very admirably described by Dr.’. Joseph.
Henry.*
* Meteorology in its connection with Agriculture, by Professor Joseph
' Henry, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institute.
“The general character of the soil between the Mississippi River and the-.
Atlantic is that of great fertility, and as a whole, in. its natural condition, with some exceptions ‘at the west, is well supplied with timber. The portion
also on the western side of the Mississippi, as far as the 98th meridian, inclu- ~
ding the States of Texas, Loisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, and Minnesota, and portions of the territory of Kansas and Nebraska, are fertile, thouch aboun‘‘ing in prairies, and subject occasionally to droughts, But the whole
space to the west, between the 98th meridian and the Rocky Mountains, de- -
nominated the Great American Plains, is a barren. waste, over which the eye. ‘may roam to the ‘extent of the visible horizon with scarcely an object to’
‘break the monotony.
. “From the Rocky Mountaind td the Pacific, with the exception of the rich _
but narrow belt ‘along the ocean. the country may also be considered, in com-
“parison with ‘other portions of the United States, a wilderness unfitted for.
"the uses of the husbandman; although in some of the mountain valleys, a4 st ~
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. 58 . : . »
' Major Emery, of the United States and Mexico Boundary - _ Commission, says :— . . ; 7 “The term, ‘plains’ is applied to the extensive inclined surface reach-
ing from the base of the Rocky. Mountains to the shores of the Gulf of
. Mexico and the valley of the Mississippi, and from a feature in the geo-
‘graphy of the western country as notable as any other. Except on the
: borders of the streams which traverse the plains in their course to the ‘ valley of the Mississippi, scarcely anything exists deserving the name of
vegetation. The soil is composed of disintegrated rocks, covered. by a
loam an inch or two in thickness, which is composed of the exuvim of “animals and decayed vegetable matter. ;
“The growth on them is principally a short but nutritious grass, called buffalo grass (Sysleria dyctaloides). A narrow strip of allyvial
'. soil, supporting a coarse grass and few cotton-wood trees, marks the ,
’ ‘line of the water-courses, which are themselves sufficiently few and far
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-between. . . ““Whatever may be said to the contrary, these plains west of the
100th ‘meridian are wholly unsusceptible of sustaining an agricultural
population, until you reach sufficiently far south to-encounter the rains
‘from the tropics.” '
a
Salt Lake, by means of irrigation, a precarious supply of food may be ob, -<=
tained sufficient to sustain a considerable population, provided they can be sinduced to submit.to privations from. which American citizens generally would shrink, The portions of the mountain system further south are
equally inhospitable, though they have been represented-to be of o different -
character, In traversing this region, whole days,are frequently passed with- out meeting ‘s rivulet or spring of water to slake the thirst of the weary traveller.” . . .
““We have stated that the entire region west of the 98th degree of west
©
’
jJangitude, with the exception of a small portion of western Texas and the - -
narrow border along the Pacific, is a country of comparatively little yalue'to, the agriculturist ; and, perhaps, it will astovish the reader if we direct his at
tention to the fact that this line, which passes southward from Lake Winne- peg to the Gulf of Mexico, will divide the whole surface of the United States into two nearly equal parts. This statement, when fully ‘appreciated, ‘will serve to dissipate some dreams which have been considered as realities‘as to ‘the destiny of the western part of the North American continent. Truth, however, transcends even the Iaudable feelings of pride of country ; and, in order properly to direct the policy of this great confederacy, it is necessary to be well acquainted with the theatre on which its future history is to be en- acted and by whose character it will mainly be shaped.” Tes
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‘The opinion of Mons. Bourgeau, who Was appointed by Sir William Hooker to accompany Capt. Palliser’s expedition as Botanist, is of the highest value: it assigns to the prairies of the Saskatchewan their proper agricaltural. position without . reference to political advantages or the all absorbing gold re-
~ gion of British: Columbia. x -.. + £MEMOBANDUM BY MR. BOURGEAU.. nhc Ceubaie ‘thé “following” yemarks on the ‘advantages for , agricultural settlement i in Rupert’s Land and the Saskatche- * Wan prairies of British orth America, having been appointed ‘by Sir Williant Hooker to accompany Captain Palliser’ ‘3 Ex- _- pedition as botanist. -
“T had especially to collect the plants that grew’ naturally An the country traversed by the Expedition, and: also their ‘seeds.. Besides my “botanical ‘collection, Dr. Hooker advised “me to make thermometrical observations at the various sta-
“*, tions, and, above all things, to take the temperature of the 2 earth at certain depths, as well’ as that of the interidr of forest . ‘ trees ; also. to notice the richness and poverty of the vegeta- tion of the” ‘country, and the maladies to which ~plants. are exposed: * "In the second letter and notes ‘addressed to ‘Sir--— William Hdoker, which have already been published, * I have treated these questions with all the.care that was permitted - to me by. observations taken in the midst of the harassment and fatigue ofa long journey, but it remairis for me to call “attention to the advantages there. would be i in establishing agricultural settlements i in the. vast’ plains of Rupert's Land,
‘ * Lia, Soo. Proceedings, 1859.
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and particularly on the Saskatchewan in the-neighbourhood ’ of. Fort Carlton. This district is much more adapted to the -.. culture of staple crops of temperate climates—such as wheat, 7 rye, barley, oats, &c.—than one would have been inclined to:
believe from its high Jatitude. In effect, the few attempts at
‘ the culture of cereals already made in the vicinity of, the Hudson's Bay Company's trading posts, demonstrate by their - _suecess how ‘easy it would .be. to ; obtain- products sufficiently - ~~
abundant largely to remunerate the efforts of the agriculturist. There, in order to put the land under cultivation, it would be necessary only ‘to till the better portions of the soil.. The
" prairies offer natural pasturage as favourable for the mainteu-
ance ‘of numerous herds as if they had been artificially
_ereated. The construction of houses for habitations by the pioneers in the development of the country would be easy, |
because in many parts of the country, independent of wood,
one would find fitting stones for building purposes; and in’ others it would be easy to find clay for bricks, more particu- | larly near Battle River. The other parts most favourable for —
culture would be in the neighbourhood of Fort Edmonton, and
‘also along the south side of the North Saskatchewan. . In the
latter district extend rich and vast prairies, interspersed with woods and forests, and where thick wood plants furnish excel- lent pasturage for domestic animals. The vetches found here, of which the principal are Vicia, Hedysarum, Lathyrus, and
Astragalus, are as fitting for the nourishment of cattle as the, - clover of European pasturage. The abundance of buffalo,
and the facility with which the herds of horses and oxen in- crease, demonstrate that, it would be enough to shelteranimals
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in winter,-and to feed them in the shelters with hay collected in advance, in order to avoid the mortality that would result”
from cold and from the attacks of wild beasts, and further to - permit the acclimatising of other domestic farmyard animuls,
such as the sheep and pig. The harvest could in general D commenced by the end of August, or the first week in Sep-~ tember, which is a season when the temperature continues sufficiently. high and rain is rare. _ In the. gardens of. the.Hud.-. .-.. —-—- son’s Bay*Company’s Posts, and still more in those of the ’ different Missions, vegetables of the leguminous family, such
as beans;’peas, and French beans, have been successfully cul- tivated; also potatoes, cabbages, turnips, carrots, rhubarb, ; and currants. No fruit tree has as yet been introduced ; but one might perhaps, under favorable circumstances, try nut- i" trees, also apple-trees belonging to varieties that ripen early. Different species of gooseberries, with edible fruits, grow wild here ; also different kinds of Vacciniace are equally indige- nous, and have pleasant fruits that will serve for the prepara- tion of preserves and confectionary. The Aronia ovalis. — (Amelanchier canadensis must be meant) is very common in. }. ' this country ; and its fruit, commonly known as the Poire, or service-berry, is ¢ driéd and eaten by the Indians, who collect
it with great care j and it also serves for the purpose of ma-
king excellent. pudding, recalling the taste of dried’ currants.
The only difficulty that would oppose agricultural settlements
‘is the immense distance to traverse over countries devoid of ‘roads, and almost uninhabited. The assistance of government
or of a well-organised company, would be indispensable to the - colonization of this country. It would be important that - 2 ; ;
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7 . 62°
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householders, for protection against the’incursions.of the In- dians, who.are, however, far from being hostile to Earopeans. It stands to reason, that the colonists ought to be taken from
the north of Europe or-from mountain districts, being those accustomed to the climatological conditions and culture of the.
soil most resembling this interesting country, to the resources
of which I call attention. The produce of agricultural séttle- _
“nents thus established would yield subsistence to the Indians, ©
whose resources. for food, supplied only by hunting, tend’ to diminish every day. The presence of European-settlers would
‘form a useful model for this primitive people, who, notwith-
standing their native apathy, still appreciate the benefits: of Civilization.”® = ; 7 , (Signed) EB. Bourerav.”
Dr. Hector says of the Fertile Belt :-— rr ae . “The most valuable feature of this belt of-country,which also strotchés .
from Touchwood Hills, Carlton, and Fort Pittgouth of Fort’ Edmonton
‘to the old Bow Fort at the Rocky Mountains, isthe inimense extent it
"Edmonton."
affords of what I shall term winter pasturage, —_ “This winter pasturage consists of tracts of country partially wooded
“ey
-with poplar and willow clumps and bearing a most_lyxuriant growth of vetches and luxuriant grasses. The clumps of wood afford shelter to °
animals, while the scrubby brush kéeps the snow in.such a loose state that they find no difficulty. in feeding} the large tracts of swampy
‘country, when frozen, also form admirable feeding grounds ; and it, is
only towards spring, in very severe winters, that: cattle and horses can- not be left to.féed in well-chosen ‘localities throughout this region of
~ country. * .
_ “Phe proportion: of arable lind is also very considerable, and even
“fate in dutumn, which.is the driest’ period .of the year, and when the askatchéwan for some weeks is. fordable at Edmonton, there seems to ~
be no want of water in the form of spiall streams and lakes. ‘In’ spring I found the snow deeper’ in the neighbourhood. of Fort Pitt ‘than at eo ONT, ' en wo,
. Loo a. - ,
settlements should be established in groups of at least fifty
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‘Very incorrect ideas have been formed respecting the fit.
ness of the prairies of the Fertile Belt for the immediate
construction of. a railway, 48 merely involving the laying of ° rails and ‘the bridging of rivers. The really level prairies '
cease_aftér passing Prairie Portage-on the Assiniboine, 90 miles from Fort Garry. The country then becomes undula- ting and often intersected by deep gullies or ravines, forming
the_narrow yalleys_in which. rivers. and. brooks flow from
Nien to 300 feet below the prairie level. These physical pecu-
fo
on
.
iarities present formidable obstacles in a pecuniary point of
view to the construction of a railroad where timber for con: _ structive purposes is scarce, and building material of any des- . éription not easily accessible west of the great lakes.
A post road as-a preliminary to.a railway could be estab- lished without difficulty or considerable expense. Indeed ‘there are only two or three points which would require more than the labour of a few men between Red River and Carl-
‘ton, But it would be necessary to have a ferry on some of "the rivers, and particularly on thé Qu’Appelle, and one on the
South Branch of the Saskatchewan. . It would not be doing justice to the noble river. which drains the Fertile Belt if no allusion were: ‘made to its fitness for
. Steam navigation. This has heen generally assymed to be the ; case, but without sufficient groundg;
. THE SASKATCHEWAN ‘ROUTE. ‘Te ts sometimes: recommended by pérsons who have not ex- -périenced the difficulties of the route, that Lake Winnipeg and.
the Saskatchewan afford.an easy means of traversing & Tenge
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part of the country bétween Red River and the Rocky Moun- ,
tains. There can be,no doubt whatéver-that if a party were
a coming FROM Britisu, CotuMBIA To CANADA THE Sourn
im ‘BRANCH OF THE SadkaTCHEWAN, THE ;QuU’APPELLE, AND
‘i THE ASSINIBOINE WOULD OFFER A MOST DESIRABLE AND ‘ .: FAQILE ROUTE, but going west against the current, the jour- "ney is tedious, harrassing, and fatiguing. The boats. which
- long experience has proved-to be the best adapted for'the navi- _
“gation of therivers of the North-west, are very strongly built, - but: they § are subjected to severe strains and much rough) usage in crossing the portages. A buat for the voyage through _ Lake Winnipeg and up the North or South Branch of the _ |. ‘Saskatchewan, need not be nearly so heavy as the Hudson - "Bay. Company’s barges, and if provided with a slip keel, great
a '” progress might-frequently be made by-sailing in the lake and -
‘up many. r ches of the Saskatchewan. ‘With the present
"kind of b -uge the whole ascent of this. great and rapid |
jection holds good with regard to the South Branch, the cur-
“rent is very swift, from 2} to°6 miles an hour,’ so that the ' ascent of either branch in boats or canoes, without the aid-of . ’ gteam-power, is not to be recommended to any party desirous: |
of reaching the Rocky Mountains in one season. The obsta- ve cles which are encountered in the way of rapids, portages,
_ shallows and mud banks, will now be described in considering, the capabilities of the Saskatchewan for steamboat communi- -
oes : cation, ths a tee etl
1a
river involves much: labour and. Fatigue. The current is so. swift, as its name implies,. that the. voyageurs are compelled to » _ track wherever there is footing on the hanks. The-same ob-
a
From éne of the mouths of Red River, where there is 18 feet of water in the channel; and from 4 to 6 feet on the bar, ‘there is no obstacle to a continuous navigation for a steamer as far as the Grand Rapids at the mouth of the Saskatchewan.
- VA steamer drawing, when light 18 inches of water might, it is thought by many, | be’ warped up the.Grand Rapid with the assistance of the power it. could supply, but-in all cages.it
would. be-necessary, until a-canal_about three:miles-long, with-- -—~----
four locks of 12’ feet lift were constructed, to have a tramway round this formidable impediment.* There are two other rap- ids, four and five miles respectively, above the’ Grand Rapid. The length of the first is one mile—-it is a long and gradual - slope, with a fall of 74 feet, anda broad channel of deep water in the middle. Loaded boats of 4 or 5 tons are tracked ‘up.this without difficulty. “The next rapid is 10 chains long, with o fall of 24 feet. These. rapids: would not present any difficulty to a steamer. All the impediments. above the Grand Rapids might be avoided by taking the- route through. the little Saskatchewan and St. Martin’s Lake to Lake. Manitobah, thence through Water-Hen River and Win- nipegoosis Lake to the- Mossy Portage,t which.is four miles | in length. Lake Winnipegoois is only four feet above Cedar
* The Grand Rapid, four mileg from the mouth of the Saskatchewan, is 2 miles and 66 chains Yong. . The total fall is 44 fect. The Hudson Bay. Com. ° pany’s boats-run this rapid. with full’cargo. “In ascending they-are tracked | from the foot of the rapid to the gest end of,the portage with half.cargo, they are then rin back again empty, aid again tracked up with the ot! her half, From thé east to the wedt on of the portage, boats are traced up vid the south ’ ~ side of the rapid with ‘a load of 1, 7300 Ibs, The remainder of the load i is Benerally carried over the por'
‘t For ¢ a description of this rie sad Mr, Dawson's Report for 1988," wo. wy
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. ot - . t ons oa 7 4 _—
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7 ce " Lake, through inlands. - The Saskatchewan flows at this-point _Yestward ‘to Thobon’s Rapids, 180° miles from Cedar Lake.
There is no impediment. to a steamer drawing two. feet water |
beyond mud banks and shallows, which cant always: be. avoided ;
by: a‘good pilot, | ; “Captain Blakiston, who’ wenbmp thy ‘Saskatchewan i in 1857,
‘at a period of low water, states that: Thobon’ s Rapid is Ger.
___ tainly not navigable fora. steamer in dow, ‘water, and:he doubts - :- ~- _ whether it would be when the-river is high, “ but the, differ-.
- ence “caused by. the state.of the water ini a rapid. ig so great "that it is hardly safe to give an opinion.” It.‘will’ be borne _*in mind that powerful steamers can be constructed to ‘draw, - when loaded, no more than two feet of water, .it. ig therefore , very, probable: that this rapid would: not present any serious - . impediment even at low water whick- might not be renioved. at small expense, or avoided by the construction of a wing. rom.’ Thobon’ 3 Rapids’ to the Grand Forks there is no ~ ‘impediment whatever which’ a good pilot might not avoid. - _ The “ Coal Falls,” on the North Branch, aré formidable, and ouldrequire to be cleared of some inimense boulders which obstruct the passage. °The current is from 5 to 7 miles an hour, and the channel in its present condition very intricate; _ and in low water probably unnavigable. Captain Blakiston exprésses his ‘opinion. respecting the navigation of the Sas- _ ' katchewan above the Coal Falls in the ‘following terms.. , “ From, thé-liead of these rapids the bed of tlie river’is. filled with batteurs : or sand bars as far as the mouth of Ver- nillion Creek; about 25 miles above Fort Pitt, after which the ‘Hotton is usually’ of ca strong natite; whidk ‘eontinues to:Fort
‘
_, 87 " Bamontoss* gdnie distance Helow which there are shall rapids — wie ‘and shoal places in the full of the year. Of the distance to “which a.steamer would ascend in high water I cgh. give-no . '. positive information, but I should suppose that’ one adapted . for that kind of navigation might. possibly reach Fort: Edmén- ton, but in low water little could be accomplished i in most “parts.” ; a
- -»--The South Branch, about. 150-miles-from its junetion. with ~~...
the North Branch, is much- obstructed with shoals and sand ‘bars, but in descending it from the Elbow in August, 185s, I~. - found then no impediments which would obstruct the passage | -” of a steamer of shallow draft.. The same remark.may in all probability be applied to this branch as far as the mouth of: ey). Red Deer River. - bo When travelling from the Rocky Mountains to Red River . en the North and South Branches of the Saskatchewan will: be a . most advantageously used. .A boat or cance can drift: down; ya these swift, currents.at the rate of 50 or 60 miles during.» > - long summer day, and the voyage from ‘the Old-Bow:Fort 6 . might be made with great rapidity and ease down Bow River -- °°. and the South. Saskatchewan to thie Elbow or mouth of, the * River'that Turns,” A portage of twelve miles involving an _ascent of 80 feet.would then have to be made to the sources of the Qu’Appelle, down which stream the traveller can float . ' to the Agsini¥oine at Fort Bllice, and thence to the- Red River Settlements, - Indians’ and Half-breeds not unfrequent- | oly make long journeys down the South Branch in canoes made . .from buffalo hides, which'are called “ Bull-boats; " Thave no . . doubt that the distance between Old ‘Boy Fort and. Fort nt Garry, <
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68 7 . H a “3 .
about’ 900 miles, might be accomplished in 20 days in a amall -
canoe or skiff, via the South Branch, Qu’ Appelle, and Assini-
boine, except daring a very dry season:
. "
AL ‘SKETCH, oF THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROCKY” waesee MOUNTAINS* ©
The Rocky Mountains rise suddenly from the erent prairie ' plains of the Saskatchewan Valley. These sometimes present
cliffs 2,000 to 3,000. feet in. height. They are formed of... _.o-~ ~ broken folds-or plications of ‘ strata, and are disposed in par- allel groups, the great valleys ‘in the length of the chain ©
Gccupying fractures or huge cracks in ‘the summit Of the folds.- Thesé wide valleys are more or Je&s connected’ by deep narrow defiles; 80 that-the river flowing through the valley cither north or south makes short breaks through the connecting defiles, to. the east-or west, and ‘the | qgurses. of the rivers in the moun-
.tains are consequently zig-zag. ° Ploeeeding westward from - "Bow Fort the first range of mountains is -composed of car: .
- boniferous strata, so also is the second range, the valley, between them being occupied by mesozoic strata. The valley . between the second and third range ‘shows rocks of Devonian
"age, while the central range. consists of qitatzites and conglo-_
merates, probably Silurian, ‘which rests on Talcose Slates .
-Wwith--QuaRTz VEINS... _ The “ ‘occurrence -of quartz véins is.
, ‘important, as will be shown hereafter. do crossing the moun-
we 2é te
_* # The reader is referred to No, 68 of tlie Quarterly Journal 0 “of the’ Giologi eal Society fof a description of the geology: of: thie Rocky Mountains in British
America, by Dr. Hector, . The'sketch in'the text is a’ summary of ‘part of Dr. _ Héetor’s paper. Ce : :
yee »
is, 6 Paddler: Lakes, Gi mite, ; ‘ely, \ The earboniferbls rocks consist | of thick bedded limestones’ yh
69° -
_tains from Bow River the traveller passes successively over
the upturned edges of the great fossiliferous central basin of’
‘ North Anjerica, and the rocks occur in correct sequence from
the first range to the central. ; The section along ‘the.North “Saskatchewan - within the Ww
mountains shows the following sequence of rocks :—
1." Brazeau Range, Mesozaie strata resting on ' Carboniferous.
2: Sheep River,
3.- First range of mountains, Carboniferous, much folded, and followed by-Devénian- rocks-on- -west- flank. mor cnet rene wa ie meee pncne aes mee 2 oe a mene ee pe
.
“4, Valley, Mesozoic strata.) ~ : ° - 5. ‘Second range, Carboniferous resting” on Devonian, and ‘the Devonian’ _ on Silurian. 5, - a
.
Section on the west slope of the mountains,
1. Height pf land, Carboniferous strata. °
2. Bldpberry Pass, Carboniferous resting on Silurian. ®.
8. Colambia Valley, east side, Carboniferous resting on highly tilted Schists. ~ :
' 4. West side of Cohimbia Valley, Schists. = eo
. 5. Kootanie Mountains, Schists, ' ao ¢
t
of oe dark and light.. blue colour, crystalline, compact, . or-
cherty. They, are associated with ‘beds of gritty,’ sandy hale
_ Benerally” ofg. dull red or’ ‘purple: ‘colour. -In the vaey of Vermillion River, and also of - Blaoberry _ Hivos talcose shales occur, forming ‘the floor of the valley. - The Columbia Valley, known: to be auriferous, is ex¢avated i in " these shales. ama _ ary are | TERRACES IN. THE MOUNTAINS. ; aS. : At, the distance of 90\miles from ‘the: Rocky Mountains ‘the’
_ valleys : of the i river flowing: to ‘the east commence to exhibit.
: : , 70 . 5° me aa
terraces composed of rounded ‘fragments of quartzite and limestone, such as would form the rounded ‘shingle on rocky.
shore. On approaching the mountains the terrace deposits .
spread out, and at last cover the whole country along the base of the mountains, filling up, the hollows. and ‘valleys’ to the- depth of several hundred, feet. Lye
In the mountains the terraces on the North Saskatchewan
are remarkably developed, so also on Bow River and on-the © Athabasca River. If the drift.of this valley should prove.to__...
~ be auriferous, as is stated, ‘the base of the Sand-Dunes’ might
be prospected for fine gold with-favourable chances of success. The terruces of the western slope are very important. © It is from these great natural auriferous deposits that the preci-
-ous metal will be procured in the greatest abundan¢e at the
commencement of mining: operations in the country. They occur in the lower part of the Vermillion River,:where they are formed of the same glistening white calcareous mud, that is found in the valley, of. the North Saskatchewan:
. In the wide valleys of the Kootanie and: the Cohimbia rive. ‘ers ‘these. terraces are best, developed on the Rocky Mountains,
The examination ‘of. the base of. these: terrates, and in
. localities similar to those’ indicated on-the néxt’ page, should be: ”
prosecuted carefully in search for thé precious metal. The’
_. importance’ of the terraces } 38' old fields may be inferred _ from the. following extract‘from. Dr. Hector's paper ;— _
“TERRACES IN TFORNIA. —Before leaving t these shingle-deposits, which are so largely distributed ‘throughout the .mountain-valleys ‘of
‘British North America, I may mention that’ in-California I found these
_ , terraces ranging on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, at least to the height of, 8,000 feet, and there’ mer. are erextensivelyy worked iby: the
vf
we
. 7 ~ hydraulic method for the sake of the gold they contain. At Nevada
-City, and also on the Yuba River, I saw deposits of this shingle-conglo- ‘merate, 200 and 300. feet in thickness, actually being washed. off from
the face of the country by this powerful means, which consists in deli¥- . ering water under great pressure against the face of the cliff, from nozzleg
_ like those of a fire engine. The supply of, water for this purpoge is in
the hands of companies separate from those that conduct the mining, as it is ofteiY broiight through tunnels and over high-level ‘aqueduct’ from remote and uninhabited regions. The particles of gold are disseminated throughout the whole deposit, but the richest washings are from its base, where a,’pink pipe-clay, technically known as “‘ pay-dirt,” ‘res¢S on the “bed-rock.” The whole water, with :the material washed‘ont of the -
cliff, is directed through long troughs ‘called “flumes;” whicli ‘are con- | “structed of wood, like mill-leads, often cotitinuously for six or seven*”
miles, .The large stones are thi§wn-out, as they pass, by men ‘with © shovels, to save the wear on the bottom of the “ flume,” while the finer. material is carried on by the rush of water, and passes over frequent cross bars called ‘‘ripples,” where a little mercury is placed td-entiap the gold by amalgamation. At Nevada City, where the coating of shingle
’ deposit has thus been cleared from the surface of the coarse-grained and
soft granite which underlies it, gigantic masses were exposed on what had once’been the rugged shore of an inlet, just as may be seen on a Waterworn coast of the same material at the present day. In California fragments of wood are found throughout the shinglé in‘ abundance, often carbonized, but in general silicified into a substance exactly resembling | asbestos. In the sand and conglomerate of the Kootanie Valley I found |
. fragments of wood of similar appearance. ~~
“As my observations in California,should not properly be introditced in this paper, I'shall leave them for another opportunity, the object of
my having méntioned them being to point out thegreat similarity between ~- *-
the superficial deposits of the great ‘gold-country and those within the British territory. further north, which encouragés me to assert that the *
whole ‘cotifitry up “to the Kootani¢’ River. and the base of the Rocky’ - .,Mountains; whereyer. the““ancient terraces prevail resting on Silurian-or
metamorphic rocks, will be found: to be auriferous. -In' my. party in 1859 I had an expert “ washer” who had been at the Californian,mines, and he frequently got ‘“coldur,” “as a faint trace of gold is termed, by
_". merély washing. the gravel from the beds of the streams, without any,
‘regular “ prospecting” or “digging.” “The discovery of what are among .. -
the richest ‘pan-diggings™ on the Pacific coast in the SchimilJcomeen - - a
-
oon
Valley, and the existence of gold-mines, worked since 1855 on Clark’s,
- © Fork, half 2 mile north of the boundaryline where it meets the Colum- ©
bian_River, prove that the belt of auriferous country in California and.
io ~ . ~ oF . 7 . teed
Y
js
..
/ : - é }
J TB
Oregon is continuous with that of Fraser River; and there i is no reason to doubt that in a short time the, rugged and unoxplored country which forms a triangular region ‘north of the boundary-line, and ‘is drained by the waters of the Upper Colurnbia and the Kootanie Rivers, will be over- , run by’ ospectors, and .then by active gold-miners, just as ‘the western “part of British Columbia has been within the last few years.”*
>
ot . -BRITISH COLUMBIA.
The country between the. Rocky Mountains and the Pacific * Ocean is rugged in‘ the extreme. It forms a great trough; bounded to‘ the west by the Cascade range of mountains, |
“which closely hugs the ‘Pacific coast. The Cascade range is only rarely broken -by valleys, and it stands like a luge _ barrier wall, 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the ocean. At inter- Is there occur great conical mountains, which rise to 10,000 or 12,000 feet, and from their isolation - they. present a very gran earance,t * The corresponflent . of the London Times, | inder date of Nov. 29, 1861; gives the following information Tespecting the Cariboo Gold Fields :-— OO
.
CARIBOO. . . ;
“The portion of British Columbia wich has yielded ‘nearly all the “ gold produced this year, and which is destined to ajtract the notice of, ~ the world to a degree hitherto not accorded to the country in the agere- gate, is a. newly discoyered ‘district called Cariboo (a corruption ‘of , erfbceuf” a large species of reindeer which inhabits the country). ': . ‘The district is about 500 ‘tailes in the. interior, north (or north-east ;
*«T have just heard that some Americans have discovered that there is gold deposited by the Saskatchewan at the Rocky Mountain House. If so, it must be washed out of the shingle-terraces along Hie eastern base of the mountains, ——Angust 1, 1861.”—Dr, Hecror. ~-.. “8,
+ Dr. Hector “ ‘On the Geology of s pation of, North, América”. “Quan Jour. Geo, Soc: wo Tk
” ' ty . Seon ad ‘eo
.
73
rather) from the coast of British Columbia and the mouth of Fraser River. It is not far from the sources or ‘head waters’ of the south branch of Fraser River and the Rocky Mountains, and forms a patch of country—a broken, rugged mass-of-mountains and streams, 50 miles
from north to south, and 30 milés from east to west, as far as yet known ¢
from recent exploration—round three sides of which the south branch of the Fraser makes a great bend or semicircle from its source to its junction with the north branch, near Fort George, a trading station of the Hudson’s Bay Company, in about Int. 53° 56’ N. For the sake of accuracy, I should mention that this branch of thé Fraser, although now, popularly called the south branch (and which the Hudson’s‘Bay Comipa-
ny called the north branch
from ‘the northerly direction of the first
portion of its course), is really the main body of the river. Its sources
are at a distance of some 60 or 70 miles westwardly from the main chain ~ -~-- -- ote
"of the Rocky Mountains. — The bend of the river, which embraces the
new inineral region’ within its curve, runs a course ‘north west 180 miles - and then takes a south-west course of about 50 ‘miles in length. This large section of country is believed, from the appearances presented on various parts of the surface, to be auriferous, both in quartz (gold mat- , _ Tix) and in placeres, throughout its whole extent; and the portions” » hitherto ‘prospected’ (as the miners’ phrase is for the search for, and for the discovery of gold) are confined to the dimensions given above—
50 by 30"miles.
“Fraser River does not acquire: sits great velocity i in this part of its - ’ equrse, which runs through a comparatively level country until it enters ‘the regions of the Cascatles and other mountains ns through which its
waters rush with an impetuositys which causes
obstructions to
navigation. Consequently the river. is navigable ‘to F ort Alexander, in
lat..52° 87 nortlé for steamers: of light’ draught ¢ of water, Say three to
_ four feet, up'to Swift River, a distance of 45: miles, and which is within
' 40 miles of Antler, in Cariboo— fact which will facilitate the traffic of
‘next yor by shortening the land carriage of the Pe aiet routs. ‘ Cariboo ew §
is in
. license of trade with the. lndine in the pcre yats which now forms the
colony of British Columbia. I cannot state the geogra position of Cariboo with accuracy, but the centre of-ths he district which. was the scene of this season’s mjfing may be 5 vine be-
The central point
2! ° .
a correction of / . lat. 58° 207, weet Jong. 121° 407." —*
ntains,”” ite, iret he district.
owsmith’s map).is in north —
.
«
s
—
‘ . . -
74 *- / . ie / THE CLIMATE, .'
, “Wo had from the first’ discovery of this gold: district heard most unfavourable reports of the severity of the winter. season, which was » ° Baid to render the country uninhabitable. The matter was set at rest by some Canadians who wintered in Caribbo Igst year. ‘They found the » * intensity of the cold so much less than in the’Canadas, that they repre- / sented the climate 9s mild compared with that of their native country. i It is inhospitable from the altitude and the abundance of mountains, the * fo. level land being about 8,000 feet and the mountains 5,000 fect more fe 7 above the level of the sea. The spring. is wet, and the summer subject f ° - to frequent rains, The snow falls in October; and, when the winter is \ ‘fairly. set in, the weather continues cold, clear and dry. Tha-mining \ season continues from May to October at present: but when accommo- —__ ~\7~ ~~ ~~ dations increase, and the minerg begin to tunnel the banks and hills for
,
Vi ‘gold, as-they will, soon So, the winter will present, no, obstacles to con: - yo, tinuous work, under cover of adits, during the whole season.” : 3° _ MINING CLAIMS.
‘A mining claim‘is a (parallelogram) piece of ground 100 feet wide,. ' running from bank to bank of a creek. “ The depth is indefinite, varying * of course with the width of the creek. Each miner is entitled to one \ of these ‘claims,’ and there may be several mjners associated together to work a ‘claim,’ In‘case of such.an assdciation amounting to five . miners, the ‘company’ would be entitled to 500 feet of ground in width. | _ and running from bank‘to bank. At first many miners ‘took u »’ claims in simulated names, and thug caused 9 mondpoly—an evil which was remedied by the Government Gold. Commissioner. when he visited the country in the summer.’ Lo, wf ‘ _ . MINING LICENSES.-. oe The miner of British Columhia pays but & very small tributé for per- . mission to dig for gold wherever and whenever he pleases in the colony. ° . The mining license is only £1 sterling a year to foreigners and to British
8 Subjects alike without-any distinction or preference of any kind, And © _ © this trifle is optional. It may be paid or not at pleasure. ‘The payment + oO gives the miner the ‘protection of the. law. in vindicating his rights of |
"sg9 Property, to his mineral ground or claim ;, agi this advantage naturally, ~~" Operates ag an inducement to tako out the license, while it-has at‘the . same time the efféct of. preserving order. by. rendering the ‘ wild justico’ _9f Judge Lynch uncalled for,” re 0
¢
Cost oF JOURNEY FROM VICTORIA ‘TO. CARIBOO. —
__ ‘\The cost of a miner in getting from Victoria to- Cariboo would be from £16 to £12." -As to security of life, I consider it just as safe there asin England. As to the mining prospects, they are clear as the sun at noon. Hveryyable man who chooses to work will make money.”
*ESTIMATED GAINS, - _ ,
' 79 miners took out an aggregate 0) $926,680 400 - “* claim owners, took: oF 600,000 - .. 1021 “ at$7a aay, i in 107 days: Lente een eneeecenens 764,729 _ Total yield (nearly ally from Cariboo . A Land $2,201,409 a - ¥,500 miners who worked in other places for. 180” oq days at $10-per diem. . ee ceeee pees $2,700,000 > ; 2,000 ditto at BBs e cece ee eetiheceeneeenees 1,800,000); Po —_—— 4,500, 000 6,000 miners—gross yield for1861 vlealececaneaeeceale . $6, 791,409
“This does not include the native Indians, as T have no means OF” N estimating their earnings. They are beginning to “ dig, ” in imitation of the white man, in some parts, and. will eventually i increase the' yield of gold, as the desire for va grows: upon them.” ‘ ae
a . mn -
“DIRECT ROUTE’ ‘THROUGH. BRrnst COLUMBIA TO. *- “PAE PACIFIC.
Tn July, 1859, Mr. William Downie made an exploration, of thé Skeena River, Babine Lake, and Stewarts, a feeder of .. ‘ ’ Frazer River.’ The results are very important in view of a.
- ‘direct route ’across the continent. The Bkeena- flows: ‘into . - Port Essington, ‘lat. 64.15,”
. Fhe party, Bays . Governor: Douglas, of: British Columbia, commenced | the- ascent of the. Skeena ‘i ina canoe, which Mey managed to take On as -far as the: For g;,4 distance of ‘110 -
miles from the sea, The riyer céases to” ‘be. avigable si at that °
76
point, in consequence, it-is supposed, ‘of falls and dangerous
* rapids; and they had to leave the canoe, and to travel 55 , niles by land to the Indian village of “Naas Glee,” a cele- _ “brated native fishing station, from whence the Skeena again
becomes” navigable.te its source in “Babine Lake,” 15 miles
. beyond “ Naas Gilet
Babine Lake is a broad and-extensive sheet of water, nearly 90 miles in length, with depth sufficient for vessels of the largest class; and is separated by a low table-land 18 miles
not quite so large as Babine Lake, but otherwise equally well
adapted for the purposes of navigation.
Mr. Downie made several important discoveries in course
'. “of his adventurous journey. He found gold in small quanti-
ties on the Skeena River; and the mountains, which he had not time to. explore, appeared to be of the formation 'contain-
. ing. gold; ‘he also’ saw very valuable and extensive beds of | “coal. He moreover ‘found gold on Stuart’s Lake. He de-,
scribes the country between the Forks and ‘(Naas Glee”
~
--in- breadth from: Stuart’s' Lake,a feeder of Fraser’s River, ~ ~~
as-being well adapted for farming, and ‘suitable for the con-
‘struction of roads. The whole distance from Babine Lake to
the sea does not appear to exceed 180 miles, & great part. of Which is accessible by water.
“The valley of the Skeena is thus shown t6 be an available
-avenue into the interior of British Columbia, and-will, I have | no doubt, soon become a most important. ontlet for the upper ° ~
districts of Fraser's River, which, from the course of the i river
with the-tea.
_oad’ the direction of the coast, are brought in close proximity .
77: “4
‘As a means of supplying the distant 1 mining districts of | British Columbia by a shorter and cheaper: route than the valley of Fraser’s-River, its importance will.soon be 3 appreci-
-ated-and attract the attention of the mining and commercial; classes; and I believe thatthe day is not far distunt when steamers will be busily: plying on the waters of the two great . inland lakes,”’* /
Mr. Downie and his party suffered many privations, but, in the true spirit of an explorer, Mr. Downie says in his Report
to Governor Douglas, 2 ee
“The only thing that supported us was the” grand idea of . the enterprise we were engaged in—that of being the first party to explore the route from the Pacific to Fraser’s River, which will one day connect the Atlantic with the Pacific Ocean.”
CON CLUSION. . a Ba
Reader, glance for one moment at what the ‘Hon. W. H. Seward thought and wrote in 1857, after visiting Labrador ~ and parts of Canada, when in cool blood he mused over the __ destinies of the country and its future relations to the States.t The Hon. W-H.. Seward is playing a great part now on this continent ; his opinion of the FUTURE OF BRitIsH AMERICA | is worth weighing.. If youare a British subject“it will en-. "courage you in bright hopes for “ Vigourovs, PERENNIAL, AND EVER-Gnowine Canapa,” and for an OverLaxp Rovrn TO Barrisy*CoLumntra.
” Papors folating to British Columbia, Oe *s ;
+A crulae to Labrador,—Log of the schoonor Emerence—Correapondence of the tnt Evening Journal, by. tho Hon, W, H, Seward, now Secretary of Btato, Unite Btates, . . .
tgs
a” ae
78
“No one is more truly a waiter on Providence than the traveller who depends on sails to be filled by favouring breezes. Ten watches of the day and night have passed since we left Anticosti, and yct we are only seventy miles nearer our port. But we have had balmy summer skies and a, gontle- summer sea, not o craft of any kind has darkened our hori" zon, It is to us asif the human world beyond it was not. The sea birds have circled our masts, crying-for crambs from our table, as it has been bountifully spread a-half dozen times on deck, either in the sun- shine.or in the shade of the canvass. The whale has blown his loddest: note on ‘his bugle in distances : so remote that the eye could not detect him, though go well ditected by the ear; and agnin he has rolled lazily by the ‘vessel's side, exposing” his vast ae
exhibitions of his race. ; “Then the nights, There has been no méon. But the stars have
; spangled the sky from the zenith down to the water’s edge—hundreds of
ambitioug light-houses offering their services officiously to mariners who lay becalmed, and, ‘therefore could not losetheir way. “And the Aurora,
’ emulous, has made a dozen milky ways in all fantastic forms, and gilded
their vergés with pink and gold borrowed from the richest sunsets, ‘The’ sea itself has been luminous, as the surface. was broken by the prow, and rolled off waves of phosphorescenit light, so brilliant as to discover the doings of the inhabitants who dwell in its dark chambers. ‘And now all.this is passed. ‘The east wind we have impatiently sighed ‘for has come at last, and it has brought 2s usual in- its train fogs, clouds and cold rains,’ But these are attended by their compensations.” The Seven Islands are passing behind us, and wo'are trying,- not; without hope, to - reach the Point de Monts, and leaving the Gulf to enter the channel of .
" the River before the third ‘Sabbath of our yoyage dawns upon us.
“ Dreamy oxistence is this living at.sca in the summer, -Porhaps: my meditations-on the political destinies of the region around me, may bo | as, unsubstantial, But 1 ‘will. noverthcless confess and avow them. Hitherto, ‘in common with most of my countrymen, as I eupposa, I have thought Canada, or to speak moro accurately, British: America, @ mere
ta
‘ ry
ecient this..most just. .... — -log of ours was not already filled with oily narratives of the hydraulic
79.
. strip lying north of the United States, easily detachable from the Parent State, but incapable of. sustaining itself, and_ therefore ultimately, nay, ~. Yight soon, to be taken on by the Federal Union, without materially ~ changing or affecting its own condition or development, T have dropped
the opinion as a national conceit. I see in British North America, stretching as it does across the continent, from tho$hores of Labrador
and Newfoundland to the Pacific, and occupying a considerable belt of
the Temperate Zone, traversed equally with the United States by the
- Lakes, and enjoying the magnificent shores of the St. Lawrence, with
its thousands of Islands in the River and Gulf, a region grand enough
~ for the seat of 2 great empire. In its wheat fields in the West, its broad -~-- ---ranges\of-the chaso at-the North, its inexhaustible: lumber- lands; the,“ - --—-- most extensive now remaining on J the globe—its invaluable fisheries, a
its yet undisturbed mineral at deposits, I see the elements of weal
‘ fore when I look at-their resources, I know-they cannot be conquered by . " the former nor permanently held by the latter. ey will be-independ- ent, as they are already self-maintaining, ving happily escaped the curse of slavery, they will never submit-themselves to the domination of slavcholders, which-prevails4 in, and détermines the character of the Uni- ted States, They will bea RusSia behind the United States, which to ‘theit will be France ond England. But they will be a Russia civilized , , and Protestant, and that will be a very different Russia from that which fills all Southern Europe with terror,’ and by reason’ of that superiority, thoy will be the more terrible to the dwellers i in the southern latitudes,
, . . "fhe policy of the United States is to perpetuate and secure the alli- - ance of Canada while it is yet young and incurious of the future, But _ on the othor hand, the policy which the United States actually pursues ’ is the jnifhtuated one of rejecting and spurning vigorous, PERENNIAL, AND “EVER-GHOWING Canada, whilo rocking to establish feeble States out of des caying Spanish Provinees on tho coasta and Instho Islands of the Gulf of - . Moxico, . roy :
\ a oe ee
80 °
“T shall not live.to see it, but the man is already born who will see the United States mourn over this stupendous folly, which is only preparing
, the way for ultimate danger and downfall. All Southern political stars
~ must set, though many times they rise again with diminished splendour. : But those which illuminate the’ Pole remain n forever shining, forever i in- creasing i in splendeur.
>.
a i
PRACTICAL. OBSERVATIONS
ox “THE CONSTRUCTION OFA coxTmuous
_ LINE OF RAILWAY FROM CANADA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN - - So ce topes cp 2 ON BRITISH TERRITORY) —~ mors
‘BY SANDFORD FLEMING, ESQ, ©. z., .f "Engineer to the Northern Rathoay of Canada.
To HENRY Youre Urn, Eso., Profesor, &e., &o. Dear Sir,—According to your request, I have much pleasure in submitting the following observations ‘on the construction of a high-
- way, within British territory, from Canada to British Columbia. .
Opening a communication for commerce between the western and
eastern shores-of North America, through the great basins of the > St. Lawrence, the Saskatchewan, and the Columbia, has for nearly
two centuries’ been a dream of the enthusiast. .So'far back as 1679
Qobert Cavalier de Ja Sale formed. to himself the magnificent scheme |
of-opening a way to China and Japan through the ‘Lake regions’ of
Canada; and curious enough, the rapids : and, village of Lachine,
near Montreal, took their-names, either in honor or in derision of
La Sale’s ptoject, when he set out ¢ on his grand enterprise. “About fifty years Jater, Charles Marquis de “Beauharnois, Governor of New. France; projected an attempt to communicate with the Pacific, and:
in pursuance of which Pierre’ Gauthier de Varennes set out in 1731 * and ‘was the first to reach’ the Rocky Mountains. oor ee ‘OF late years the project has been brought prominently before fhe
public i in’ England wad 4 in Canada by many, writers, amongst others,
ee At ee eee
' g2 oy
Lieut. Millington Henry Synge, RE. ey in 1848 ; Major Robert
Carmichaél- Smyth, and a Mr. Wilson, of the Hudson’ 8 Bay service,
_.. in 1849; “Allan Macdonell, Esq. in_1850, and Captain Thomas
Blakiston, R.A., in 1859. ‘Hach laid their views before the public,
and warmly advocated the importance of opening up the interior of _
- British North America by a highway from ocean to ocean. _ In 1858 the Provintial Legislature of Canada incorporated a joint
.... stook-company -for the purpose of-opening up-the interior -and-trad-~
ing therein. This body, entitled “‘ The North-West Transportation
* Navigation and Railway Company,” was granted most extensive
_ powers ; besides trading in furs, tallow, buffylo meat, hides, fish-oil, and other articles of commerce, the company Was empowered to improve and render navigable the various channels of water com- munication ; to construct Jinks of roads, tramways, and railways, between navigable Jukes: and rivers, 80 a8 to provide facilities for transport from the shores of Lake Superior to Fraser's River, They “had likewise the right to own and employ ‘vessels of all kinds ‘‘ upon
" Takes Huron and Superior, and upon all the waters, lakes and rivers”
lyidi&to the northward’and to the westward’ of the latter, thereby
offering to their energy and their enterprise ; a new and vast field for’
commercial .adventure.’’ ‘The directing board of this company was
the same year fally organized, it embraced some ‘of the leading names.
connected with Canada, but from some cause. it has as yet made no progress in the objects contemplated.
From ,the- above brief sketch” of’ the history of the. project’ of establishing 4 highway from Canada across the continent it appears
"that it has from the earliest settlement of the country bordering on the Atlantic, been considered a magoificent scheme for the extension
of commerce and civilization; ‘the Palliser expedition across the Rocky Mountdins, the Assinniboine and Saskatchewan expedition,
-' show that it has very lately received the attention. of the’ eaperial as
9
Sth
88:
well as the Colonial Governments ; the recent discovery of ‘gold on both slopes of the Rocky Méuntains, gives it much additional interest, and listly, the difficulties between the United States: cand Imperial Governments, for the present happily set aside, have not fuiled to show its vast importance.as an engine of military defence. It seems likely then, that’ akthoigh the means of transport’ for nearly. 2,000 miles are as yet scarcely better than they were when ~~ . ~~ —~La-Sale- attempted to traverse the -continent almost two centuries ~~ 7 7 ago, the time is rapidly approaching when a highway acrces the continent will no longer, by any one be viewed as visionary. Before proceeding to consider the construction of the work prac- tically it will be necessary to discuss its character, and profitable to -
view, its magnitude, © ’ . ue 5 w -, T2S CHARACTER.- . ee . et c
A coNTINTOUs LINE OF RAILWAY ADVOCATED, SL —
The early French Projectors appear to have had the idea of open- . ing.a water communication to the Pacific through the lakes and rivers ‘of: Canada and.the interior. - Nearly all the recgnt writers on a the subject have - ‘proposed in’ different ways to imprave and render ~ navigable the natural lines of water communication: I am not aware - _ however, that any of thé latter, by reason’ of theit knowledge of the great’ Rocky Mountain barrier, have-coitemplated a route wholly by - water; they have generally advocated a_mixed system, employing * .\. ° thé’ water channels as far as possible, and connecting them by-inter- mediate-links of roads or of railways. On the other hand; Captain ; Blackiston appears to be much in favor of a Jand route, for the’ pre- o3 sent, at least from the north shore of Lake ‘Superior to Red River, ©. * . by the north end of Lake of the Woods, at some distance inland -_ ‘from | the international boundary line; and Major Carmichael- Smyth ° ‘ in 1849 boldly urged the construction of a “ British Colonial Bail-
Smee a .
Be te ee TO ne)
way” to connect without break Halifax on the Atlantic with the
mouth of Fraser’s River on the Pacific. - _ .
‘All the schémes proposed may be: reduced to two kinds, viz. 2 partly water and. partly’ land; and wholly land routes 3 the former. may possess the advantage in point of cheapness in construction; but .
certainly not in regard to efficiency. By using the lakes and rivers
as far us navigable or capable of being made so, and by constructing
ir
~ * “eonnecting links of ‘roads’ or railways Where necessary to complete
the chaia, it is. more than.likely that a-line of communication could be formed from ocean to ocean at less cost than could a continuous land route ;—a mixed Iand and water route would, however, be always open to the following objections: it would to a great exten ty confine polonizatioasto the banks of rivers and lakes whers the soil
is not invariably moat suitable for cultivation: It-would involve |
many-transhipmentsy an be ‘Hable to frequent interruptions. ;' It ‘~—would necéssarily-bo considegitily longer than ‘a direct land route, and, as a means of transport for “ through traffic,” would be slow’ and iedious,—it would too, and this objection is insuperable, be only available for any kind of traffic during less than six months‘in _the year.* It is well known that serious delays frequently arise on canal
“ nayigation before the season terminates towards the élose of navi- < -
greatér.would be these difficulties, merchants at‘either end, unwilliog | _ to ritithe risk of haviag goods arrested in the interior for half a year, would in. consequence-be debarred from sending consignments
across thé-country for some considerable time before the water chan-
nels were completely closed, and hence it is believed that a partly
Jand and water route would not be really serviceable for “through . aes . y ~
a
* The navigation ‘of the lakes: and rivers on the line of route are closed _, from the middie-of November.to the Ist of Jane.—Bisziston. ‘
go
“4%
oes by reason of the press of business. - The longer the route the
85° - 7 / \ . i
traffic” over five months in the year. .The local/traffic of the inte- riér would likewise be suspended for long periods, and at such times. the country and its inhabitants would be.as ‘uch. isolated ‘ag they /* are now. In military view alone this objection would prove fata to any permanent route of an amphibious character ;. and it is prd- _ Bably on this ground, together with the fact that the water lines pass
A railway communicatioa on the other hand would be the practicable line that the physical. features of the cout
admit,—it would have no transhipments between tide water on. the” a
two oceans,—it would in most instanded be carried thro gh the heart of the country at some distance from lakes and rivers, and would _ thus open valuable tracts of land for colonization which could not be. reached by navigable wateis ; when it touchéd or intersected. water channels, these would form natural. branches to it, and be available to their fullest extent in laying opew’the land along their banks for settlement. It would, as an esséntial and independent fart of its equipment, be provided with. ad electric telegraph the telegraph, as on other lines, would be available for purposes beyond the immediate requirements of the railway, and without doubt great: benefits would result from: the possession of this instantaneous means of communication. * The railway would throughout the year
nied eee oe
*A télegraph would be much more expensive in the first place, and’ almost
impossible to maintain on any line noross the country other than a railway or other travelled land route, if carried around lakes or through on hy Rie miles of uncleared forest, the wires would -constantly be brokeir timber, and the posts frequently destroyed by running fires; ings ; - interruption? might thas ocour when the telegraph was most in nee es railway it is-part of the duty of the trackmen to look out for ‘fallen teen : and a break is thus speedily repaired when it occurs: when the line is ole: _ toa sufficient width interruptions from this cause are not frequent. —
“
be open to tranpport ee through: ” ag. veel ag & local ” merchandise and * passengers; and would, take with the telegraph, In a niilitary aspect . ~ be avuiluble at all’ times und’ seasons, and would undoubtedly prove , - an important aa_ well: as permanent mexsure of defence to. the i on COUNT eee : “ : 4, -* ’ It is not, howaver, to, be supposed that ‘the operating of a railway through ‘this extensive country would bo entirely free from om diffieal-~ 4 +, ties; the permanent supply. of fuel would. be.a. question- of sno: little “~~ ~ ““woment, the intense'frosts and tha snow drifts’ of a Jong. wiater ‘ would have,to be contended with. The latter i is found in operating Canadian as well as other railways io a ‘like northern latitude to-be . a cause of not ‘unfrequent interruption to the regular running of “- trains, besides oftén the Reessity of a “heavy outlay. Fhe drifting _ “of anow,-like all operations of nature is, however, governed by cer- “tain laws, and it is possible on a corréct knowledge of them to adopt - ' measures in the general design. of ‘Tailways and their appliances which may certainly | diminish if they do:not entirely remove the evil effects ‘of the agency referred to.. These questions will be more partioularly- 7 : referred, to in their proper place. co a Taking all things into consideration, and, "notwithstanding ‘the difficulties last. mentioned, ‘it seems -as clear.as a. demonstration that vat + @ continuous line of railway, with its electric telegraph, extending across -the continent is-much to be preferred to « in hae system of " navigation and railway combined, and therefore: in the following’ observations it will be understood-that a line of railway i is the char- acter of highway ultimately in view.. It is true that; in’ preparing _ the country for railway service the natural water channels as far ad". * they go may be advantageously employed, but it would evidently be. __ unwise to incur much expenditure; on any route other than that best calculated to accommodate the permanent wants of the country’ and . highest interests of ‘the Colonial Empire.
, x
Ac? ITs MAGNITUDE: - co8r ARD MAINTENANCE OF A RAWWAY AND ‘TELEGRAPH LINE, Having determined the ‘character of the means of communication
~ most desirable to be established it may be well now to ‘glance at the -
eam parative dimensions of the proposed - work, and’ to. consider the cost of its construction as well as the annual expcnse of maintaining it for ever afterwards. Lo “Measuring on the - aap along the “général: route of “The_proposed like from the mouth of Praser’s Kiver; through one ofthe best © passes yet discovered in the Rocky -Mountains, along the’ general’ direction of “the Fertile Belt,” keeping south of the North Suas- katcltewan, crossing the Red River-near the § Settlement, bridging the Winnipeg River at the north end of ‘the Lake of the Woods, striking through the country to the most northerly bendof the shore of: Lake Superior, thence-in a diréct line to a crossing ‘on the French . “River west of Lake Nipissing, and from this point connecting with the existing railway system of Canada, either at the Town of Barrie, or at Peterboro, orat the City of Ottawa ; the: distance thus mea- sured will be found to be in round numbers about ; 2000 nuiles, and | although a railway between the two oceans on. British territory, ~~ cannot be considered perfect without the completion of the road be- ‘tween Halifax and the niost easterly extension of the Grand Trunk in Lower-Canada, yet'as there is some prospect of this section being ~ made ‘independeiitly, it. does ‘not appear. pecessuryto embrace its length i in the prezent ¢ ‘consideration. ‘ : That a just cofiception may be formed of the real magnitude. of
“ the projéct ‘under ‘discussion, and the means necessary to its attain-"
ment, attenfion may for'a moment be drawn: to a few leading details. _, The construction of 2000. miles of railway: ‘measured by the average — "standard of similar works existing in -this qountry implies. the. per- . formance of Inbourers’ work suficient to. ive employment to’ 1000.
uv , “ 88 ve | men for 50 ¢ or +60 years,—it involves the delivery of 5, 000, 000 crése- ties or sleepers, and over :200 ,000 tons of iron-rails for the per-
” manent way! —it comprises tho- erection of 60, 000 _ Poles | hung: with, 1000, tons .of wire for the Tejegraph—it. necessitates the creation of motive -power equivalent to over 50,000 horses, which power, would
. be concentrated -in 400 Locomotives—it involves the production of
. from 5000, to 6000 cars of all kinds, which, coupled with thé loco- lastly ‘it implies a gross expenditure on construotion-and equipment,
' of not less*than $100,000,000.*"
Jt will likewise serve as a salutary check on hasty conclusions to weigh before: hand the cost of operating a.truly gigantic establish- .
_ met of: the kind after ita perfect completion; a few figures derived from actual regults will shew that the first ,construction ‘of a ‘railway
_ Motives, would. make_a single ‘train over..30- miles in, fongth—and on
through the Ynterior of British N orth America i is even a less formidable
uridertaking than that of keeping ig afterwards open ‘in the present ~ condition of: the country.’ -For operating the line successfully, the -
itd
ena siderably exceed 200, 000 cords—for keeping ‘the road’ in repair as “ ‘regiment of 2000 trackmea would: constantly.be employed in small
“gangs, throughout its entire length; . for.the same purpose .there
- would on an average be annually required 600,000 new cross-ties as
well as 8 nearly 30, 000 tons of new or re-rolled iron rails—the anoual repairs of Rolling Stock would not cost less’ than one. million dol- .
, lars—over 5000° “employées ofall kinds would constantly, be.under *
Pays atid ag thesa:men would denally Tepresent ‘each ‘a family, there
. ajor Carmichaol Smyth estimated the cost of building aline of railway. frown alifax to the Pacific at £150,000,000 aterling, equal’to over $700,000,000... - . +’... but then he computes the expenditure as on English railways, where.more a - nonéy has been wasted ‘in Ean eliminary expenses and lavished on architectu- ; vale ‘niontiments at Stations nan would suffice to build a an sonnel length of road oye in ‘this’ or ay new ‘country... ,
* fuel alone required in‘each year, and estimated as wood, would con-
Soe - 89 , . would. ‘not be far éhort of 20,000 souls subsisting by the operation of
- the road: | The aggregate amount of wages in each year after the.
“yoad was in operation would swell out to nearly $2,000,000, while the. gross expenditure for operating and maintaining works, would ‘anoually exceed $8,000,000.. .
' Again, if to this ‘last sum be added. the tiiferest on first cost, “it
.. becomes evident that until the gross earnings of the railway in each. _ year come, ‘up to. the.enormous sum.of. $14,090,000, -it could-not- pay -
interest c on the capital invested.
“Ins IMPORTANCE.”
A GREAT NATIONAL WORK, ‘X-FTELD FOR LABOUR, AN ENGINE ‘oF weurranr . = DEFENCE.
The above computations taken by themeelvés are nicre than suffi-
_ cient'to deter any one from:casting a second thought on'the subject of
constructing a railway through the unpeopled wilds of British North Anigrica, bat when we again réfléct on ‘the vast importance ‘of. this . great national work the belief is forced upon us, that at some period, - “tet it be @ remote one, the undertaking will certainly be a¢complished. ‘While, most authorities -have very fully dwelt upon the commercial advantages to be‘ attained by a speedy means’ of communication a across the’ country—while they ‘have shown ‘its value aa a connecting chain between British Columbia, the Gold Fields on the slopes of the Rocky Mountains, the Settlements at Red River, and the Atlaatio Provinges, ss well as a link of connection between Clina, India, even Australis, together with other Dependencies onthe Pacific and _ the Parent Land——while they“have advocated it as the key to‘ ‘new and almost boundless field for British capital, energy and’ enterprise— ag a great instrament of colonization, opening up a territory of vast extent for. the superabundant and rapidly increasing. population of
‘the European” States, a and in this respect involving the fatare. and
Fo. : oan be, +
o>
oo. 90 ae
‘permanent interests of civilization—yet it has not been the good for-
“<;, tune of the writer to peruse any article in which this undertaking i is
.
____able to concentrate_troops and_rhunitions.of.war.at-any.given- -point ——. ‘uu our extended frontier, but the récent-difficulties betwen the Brit. we
rd
ee.
oor .
viewed asa most important ‘measure of defence, a3 a work which". _ may at some period save many millions sterling in carrying on a war “which may, if it does not prevent & war, save the Colonial, ‘Empire from dismemberment.
_-In times of Peace we are apt to overlook the importancs of being
ish and American governments, could not fuil to illustfate thé mili tary value of the séveral Canadian railways as well. as the isolated and defenceleas condition of the for interior. Had war not-fortu-
_ nately been avoided it is difficult to see how that vist and prospect-.
ively most valuable territor “betweon the Lake District and the Rocky
Mountains could have been protected. from ‘invasion and ‘permanent.’
occupation, and we are forced to.the conclusion that until a highway, is formed the intorior‘of our country is indefensible. ‘The Romans
paid particular attention to the construction of roads through the - distant Provinces of the Empire, and while the construction of these _
roads was one of the grand ‘causes of civilization introduced into
barbarous States, the great leading principle-which actuated the
builders of thom, was that of maintaining their military supremacy, the first efforts of ‘that peoplé were directed to piercing new acquisi-
tions to the Empire with good roads, and these roads. wherever prac-_
we
ticable were connected-in unbroken lines with the-seat of government. ,
at Rome. The remains of’ these roads are still to. be traced in va- rious rawifications through Europe, and 80 substantially were they
constructed that they have for fifteen centuries perpetuated the > power ;
_and foresight of their originator:
: In modern times, Napoleon, one 10 of the greatest, if not the greatest .
~ niilitary authority, announced the. maxim that the highest effort. of
.
Oe "1
me the military tactician was to concentrate a a piven number. 6& men at - . @ given pluce, aba given time. - It ‘requires no argument to prove . that the Railway and the Electric Telegraph are the most: -perfect,, ° . means for concentration of military power that could possibly be.” desired, and wecan ‘easily perceive with-what comparative enge forces“ a € _ could be brought to bepr through the instrumentality of these agents, ‘ . on apy point threatened with iavasion. , _--——True;-we-are ogain-at peace: with our neighbours t0 the ‘oak “and perhaps likely to remaia in-that happy state fur a considerable time, but possibly not always; some good authority bas luid down as a maxim, that to maintain peace, a nation must be well’ prepared-for an opposite condition of things, and theréfore we inust see the value - of the railway route to bind the several North American Colonies of 46 Britain together. . But it is not alone as a work of defence that the British Pacific Railway would be serviceable ina military sense ; it cannot be forgotten that within a very few years back the British troops had to be transported with the greatest possiblé. fapidity to .
_ India.and again to China. Such exigencies may at‘any time occur again, either! in the same lands or at other points in the same hemis- _ phere, and it must be of the utmost importance ‘to. the Imperial 4. Government to possess tho means of carrying militsry furces more
“rapidly by a route over entirely British soil than by any other route slong which they may come in contact with antagonistic nations, :
I have already overstepped the limits of space which these. -pre-
liminary remarks should have occupied, but I cannot proceed to the
: more practical section of this letter without first alluding to the
’ efforts which for. more than half a century. have been made by the
“Imperial Government to discover a- means of communication by * water between the. Northern Atlantic and’ the Northern Pacific : Oceans, ‘Although the persevering and sometimes heroic-attempts coe to find ¢ a ‘north-west passage have resulted: i in no direct advantage, =
NY “ oo a
92 og, to e
“ay ny 43
beyond.. trifling contribution’ to science and geographical Lnowlédge, _
- «yet théy are-undoubted evidence of the:high cofnmercial and mili-
| ™ tary value which the’ British Government has long placed upon the -. ° _ possession , of a-means of communication between the two ocesna'in ,
the northern hemisphere ; and while the- expenditure- of a sum von- ”..” pidérably over a million -pounds sterling has - only proved that a cos passage: through the Arctic: Seas canaot-be established,.the very impracticability of the passage which the outlay. of so much treasure
& ° as well as the loss. of so many, valuable lives ‘has demonstrated, must , ” withgut doubt add immensely to the’ importance of the only practicn-
a __bidWoute across the continent, ‘on British soil
‘| >. SCHED, OF CONSTRUCTION.” . oie a
. ane é THE COMPLETION OF THE ‘RAILWAY x WORK oF ome,
“The idea of constructing ‘upwards of 2, 000° “iles ‘of railway i in the manner which has characterised the establishment of similar un- dertakings heretofore, through a country almost uninhabited except
i * by ‘eattered ‘bands of .wagdering Indians, may well be viewed asa.
‘ commercial absurdity. It has’been shown that the maintaining and operating of. a railway of this éxtent, ‘after its _perfect completion, would cost not.less than eight million dollars j per annum, and that
4
its, traffic would have ‘to yield ‘in “gross receipts ‘fourteen “willions "> °
of dollars every year, to enable the work to pay ‘interest on the: capital
_ invested. - Cogld it be satisfactorily shown that 1 these receipts might even be
approached, the, work would undoubtedly bea legitimate investment 7 . for private capital, and we might fairly expect-to see it undertaken -
by private enterprise, but at present-po such indacement ¢ can beheld” mo
|. outs however important the line would -be id’ matiy 2 réspécts the,
- busfniess of ‘the country traversed could’ ‘not, for imany- years ‘yield ) 42 moré than a factional patt of the Fovenue requir oop it open,”
°
; . a4, - | "and the traffic from ocean to ocean could not be expected even by " . the most sanguine to give. constant and profitable employment to a “ “force of four hundred locomotives, without which the road would searcely pay. =. - “ It appears conclusive therefore that the immediate construction of _ & railway from Canada to the Pacific is in a financial sease impracti- cable, seeing that it would not at present-pay ; and however impor- tont it may be,considered as a great national work its successful _” operation as a commercial undertaking cannot take place-until the eduntry is better prepared for it. © - ; . oe _..... dt must_not however_be implied that the idea ‘of éstablishing.a =. continuous line of ‘railway from ocean’to ocean should even'al the. ~ | present time be’ set aside. It may be laid‘down aya maxim that wherever traffic can exist sufficiently extensive in any-section of ..-eountry to render the application’ of*steam power profitable thrdugh a that section a riilway will sooner or later be constructed. The | “* --country between Canada and the Pacific is, according to reliable authority, in every respect capable of supporting a large industrial ~ -population* half as“large perhaps even at a moderate computation “as the population of thie whole Uwited-States=the population of-the whole United’ States sustains over. 30,000. miles of-railway, and . * “therefore we may reasonably conclude that Jong before the interior’ -
i
\
“Assuming that only that’ portion ‘of British America west of the Luke of 4 : the’Woods and south of the main or North Saskatchewan River, is capable Ce “y of being populatéd to no greater density than Ruésfa, the least populous coun. + . try Europe, Norway und Sweden-excepted, within these limits a population ~ ~ "of 15,000,000 would be contained, (the density of the Population . uesia is only,abéut one-third that of the settled portion of the Canadas). Theoceu. | . ation of this portion of the country need not be considered a great‘encroach. ,' >. ment‘on the territory from which the Hudson’s Bay Fur Company derives its revenne, it would still leave 2,000,000 square miles, an area four times greater , than that assumed to be populated, an area quite as extensive aq Russia. and - _Sbundantly sufficient, itis.presumed; for a hunting ground.
were eee oe See oy
ae
4
-» °° of British America is fully occupied, a leading line of railway com- | : munication through it i may be successfully operated ‘and profitably sustained. -
The question’ of opeving up new territories for settlement: by on means of some comprehensive and economical road syatem engaged 7 “my attention a few years ago when ‘I had the honor to read two papers on the subject before the Canadian Institute, and'I cannot
but think that some ‘of the conclusions then come to-apply with
peculiar force to the subject matter of this letter. In one of these
_papers a retrospective view was taken of the*process by which the
“Province. of Canada had become habitable -and inhabited, so far.at -.
1! Teast as_ lines , of. internal -communication—had- been- instrumental. ‘ia ——
producing these results, and an analytical examination of the exist-
ing) road and railway systems was made, as well ‘bs an enquiry into
yg - the means employed to produce them. ‘From these enquiries, insti-
“» tuted with the view of arranging some more perfect system of road
= " .” development for advantageous’ introduction into. unoccupied districts, | ; ‘certain deductions were drawn, of which the. following may at present
* be submitted. * .
2 In carrying railroads, the most , perfect of ‘all roads, into’ remote — unsettled districts, two great dificultiés have to be encountered. at os “the outset :—Hirst, their construction ; ; secondly, their inaintenance.
" "he former may be overcome by a process. which stron gly resembles.
_a law or principle in mechanical science, by, which. we are. taught » that time is an element of equal importance to power in the perform- ance of mechanical operations. The construction of a railway with
- all its, parts is nothing: more than a’ complex mechanical” operation, whilst. _ capital or money ‘may ‘be designated the force or. power | . employed to ‘bring. about: the desired result ; 3a large expenditure of financial force -is undoubtedly required to. ‘acconiplish the object -
a , Withia, a abort. ‘period, bat, owing to. the, ‘peouliar ‘relition betwéen a
an
BB an
power and time the employment of a small amount of force or capi- __tal would equally accomplish’ the same end in a‘ loager period ; both of these elements are indispénsible, but they aré not neces- sarily required in fixed proportions,.if we use the maximum of the one we only need the minimuai of the other,—if circumstances “Th any particalar, case will not juatify a large expenditure of capital” then time may, be extensively empliyed to accomplish. ‘the work in hand. The second dificulty above referred, to, viz. : that of: ‘maintaining a railway i in a new district after its completion, although™by fut the most serious of. the two, is one which fortunately can be removed - ey
~-~by-a-particular-solution--of-the- first It--is- obvious. that - to- -put-- at
- “appear, experience. has shown on nearly all railways that the “local”
""many-years without the means, of. earning sufficient to. sustain n itself, bat
a limited extent, and it would’ leave the railway finished when. the “traffic was gufficient ‘to keep it.in profitable operation... .
a railway in a condition of being self-sustaining, the. traffic of the coun- try through which it passes must first be develupéd, forhoweveriwpor- =,“ tant and promising the ¢ through: traffic’ of any projected] Vine may
or ‘ way traffic” is that upon which they, must wuioly depend for a ~revenue.’ The local traffic of a new territory. can only be developed _ | by the introduction of labour and inhabitants; this is a-work of -. | a considerable time even under the most favorable eirciinistances,. bus «OS until this be.done it is-useless to expect sufficient traffic, and without : sufficient traffic the railway cannot muintain itself cot In- - applying the foregoing to the question: of forming a railway connection: between. Cunada and the Pacific, it, would follow: ‘that ; whilst the completion of the: ;work at the earliest period possible’ ot would absorb an enormous amount of capital, and Jeave the line for + |”
thb gradual process of construction would draw upon capital % Saly to
whe epee rete
- The. former: ‘course smay fairly, be Tejetied as incompatible s with the |
a . . he, Sy 6 . e a
firat principles : the latter being’ perhaps the only alter. - native, forces ua’to. the conclusion that the gigantic work under con- - sidera on, / 'to by constructed at all must be viewed-as a work of time;: and i iy remaing/for us to consider how the time at command can be most: b profitably. émployed to bring about the desired result.
a ~-f _ THE ROAD SYSTEM OF- CANADA, 00 —_ ~~ congrpenep. IN VIEW OF a COMPREHENSIVE PLAN FOR ew TERRITORIES, ; In pursuance of the object in view, it may be satisfactory and pro. '.fitable to refer briefly to the leading “cHaracteristics which have - marked the origin and improvement of the roads as well as the intro. | _.-. -..-- duction. of-railroads-in the-settled-portion of Cstada
The settled or partially settled portion of Canada embraces ahi area” estimated at 35, 000 ‘square miles’; its road system or means of inter- communication exclusive ‘of navigable channels, consists of nearly. 2,100 miles of railway i in fall opération,, of probably 3000 miles in the
. agerepate of improved, roads, comprising those made of broken atone, ; gravel and plank, and in round. numbers.of 50,000 iniles of what |
a _are termed road allowancag’; of the last it is estimated that consider- ‘ably less.than one- half the total length i is cleared of thé timber and so far improved as to be’ passable for wag ggons, the remainder being: as yet uncleared and in “part permanently impassable. 1" -
The road’ allowances demand some explanation ; they are invariably -one chain’ (66 feet) i in’ width, ‘and are left between the square or-ree- ~“tangular blocks of.farm Lots, into which the whole country has been a * gubdivided- -for settlement ; they ‘are consequently i in parallel lines; - ‘and in two sets, the one crossing the other’ at right angles, leaving _ blocks between of two or more farm lots of 200 sicres each. The aggregate area of these ‘road: allowarices'i is extremely. liberal; 98 it canaot be much less than 400, 000 acres,” but from the manner “Ja which the allosraxices, arg laid out, they « cannot in all, cases. be ems. 7,
t
o
ployed for the purposes intended; they are, “however,. much used, by the farmers in common for pasturing cattle. Where the country is
level and free from Jakes, rivers.or-other.obstructions, the road allow-
, ances. have béon- converted~into good summer Waggon roads by the = + - . sunual performance of statute labour and they give ready access to thefarm lots; where the country ig hilly or broken on the other hand» gre t difficulty, has been experienced in making ‘them passable, and in/ many instances this is impossible, and in others after s great deal 3 of: money and labour had been expénded, the original Toad allow- ; ances have been abandoned for better ‘lozations. 7 As the settlement and trade of the codntry advanced ademand ge ~ was-made-for amore ‘improved: class-of highways’on the leading” lines* ae of traffic; this led to the construction of plaak,* gravel or broken’ ; stone roads through different parts of the country, and may be said to constitute the second stage in the development « of the rond'system.: *" As the road. allowances were left-in.the original surveys more to
. mark’ the limits between blocks of land than to accommodate: the Ae
future commercial wants of the couiitry, they did. not. long remain © ‘the only: means of: communication between one business point and ‘another. Increasing traffic frequently called for roads with easier - ‘grades than those to be bad on the original road: :allowances, and in
* cases where it sought an:outlet disgonally across't the, country, it de- . manded a shorter line than’ the. old rectangular rigenag, one 5 . in this ;
manner new and more perfect roads were constructed i in various & gec- . tions of the country. | vow a ‘The. third: and.‘last stage. in the: establishunant, of lines. of ioternsl _ eminunication within the Province; was’ the formation of: “railways ; Te these were first introduced. about. ten or twelve “years, ago.when.the =. ° ‘increasing commercial wants of the- coantry: appeared: to demand a °- :
‘greater: degres, of. rapidity, safety. and; ‘security: of transport. ..
Mag
nisias plane red ‘wan balls ‘VoperCanae ie 18 nes aa =
[hee
98
Although the’ location of railways through any district requires a
higher degree of care and skill than that of gravel or other roads of
nN
oe
_a like character, yet it is governed - by precisely the same principles, _and the general ‘direction of all lines is prescribed by the leading
direction sought by traffic; hence we find that the various lines of railway have been’ constructed parallel, or at least in a parallel direc- tion to the various-stone oF plank roads which haye preceded them, although they are frequently found at some distance asunder : this is a ‘peculiarity which cannot fail to have been observed by all those
” adguainted with the country.
. ‘xpended in. cutting? Bille balding ridges be eo; agin: “Toadzaning, yet
From the ubove brief outline of the origin and history of the lines
three, distinct classes of roads-have at different times been constructed to meat the requirements of traffic. First we have common earth roads, on the original road allowances. ‘Second, gravel, plank or beg en stone roadsin improved locations.: Third, railways construct-
quite: independéntly of the other two—showing asa rule that thd distinct works have been made, involving as many separate,
expenditures before the final object is attained. “The only exception - ' to this rule are where the second class have ‘been made on the lines
of the original road-allowances, bat these exceptions have perhaps been even more experisive.to the country than when the rale has hot
beén departed fromi.* oe a
' *Inag Report made by Thomas Roy, Esq., Civil: Engineer, i in 1841, to the | . Governor General of Canada, reference is made to the excessive cost of making |
good roads on the lino of. original allowances. drawn straight through the
that portion -which has been already.done nearly ; as much money has been
-eqguntry across ravines, over hills, through swamps and. other, ‘hindrances... , . Amongst other cases where attempta have been made to construct improved . roads on such lines as that alluded to he instances the following: “! The grants-- —.-. were made to macadamize Yonge Street Rodd from Toronto to Holland iLand-. * ing, near Lake Simcne. Now Yonge Street Road was so located that it waa _ " extremely. difficult and expensive to’ form it, into a.tolerabl ly good. rond. On
- of- commercial: intercourse within the~ Provinces “it willbe séen tliat ~~~
99 Le Tt It may also be observed that the system adopted has‘in minor. details unavoidably resulted in many permanent inconveniences to ..,the trade of the country, which under other arrangements: might *“have been obviated; as- an illustration it may for the present be sufficient to allude to the inconvenient distances which nearly all the railway stations are from the towns and villages they ara.intended to ‘ pecommodate. It may further be noticed that a degree of competi- “tion likewise obtains between the parallel lines of communication throughout the country, alike injurious to the interests of both. A stone road running parallel to a railway cannot fuil to share with it - wot the traffic of the locality, perhaps just sufficient to prevent the later’. / ---~ -line from’ paying, while the” fornier is deprived, by thie” miofe récent~ "> =
a
-" as branches to them from the stations, it is apparent that then the
several of the inclinations.are as steep ag 1 in 14; That portion which re- . mains to be done is still more difficult, and, it will be more expensive, Now, if previously, to commencing the work an experienced Engineer had beenin- |. structed to examine the country and to lay out 4 road .npon the: best, ground. -’ ~~" . which he could find between Toronto and Holland Landing, he would have ' discovered” that between 3 and-5 miles west of Yonge Street’ Road, alineof — ; -. road jestld’ have been got from Toronto to the base of the Ridges, (about 25 °°: _ _ milesj:without crossing one ravine, or meeting any difficulty except the hill. tye .' > £0 the north-west of Toronto; and farther, that the Ridges could have been crossed in that direction without’ involving any considerable difficulty. (The result is, that the same ‘amount which has been expended in making about fourteen miles of a very indifferent road, would have made about thirty (miles . . _ of excellent road, leaving no inclinations steeper than J in 40; acireumstonce, .~. ..”., "that would haye produced a great'saving in repairs, and in expense of aoimal ~ efrength.! .:--"-~ we ES Ma i creme
r, co my oo - wee en oe .
| 100
country generally would derive grentar advantages, while the different ‘ _ classes of communications, in ‘performitg: their- proper functions, .. would receive correspotiding bendéfits to those they eonforred.
At is not for: 4 moment presumed: ‘that w.re-nrrangement of: ‘existing lines “of traffic such’ ps, that~su éested.is now possible; but these - remarks are offered with the view of showing. some of the benefits ° which would reanlt frbut' Ey pre-arrangemont of internal communication - - dn a new-country,, hie Twill take occasion to refer to shortly.
", Before attempting to\show how we may best profit by the expe .
: rience. obtained from the Canadian road system in any effort to
7 * colonize the. interior of British North America, Twill first allude to.
ss eee nd
s——- another point’ whieh “doubtless bas” suggested itself to many others, wand which I think is of some moment. .
If we proceed to analyse that portion of a perfect railway upon which the trains/' are sapidly transported: we find. that’ it consists essentially of soe parts: 1st, Two smooth parallel’ and hori- - gontal surfaces gporwhick the wheels of the carriagés roll; these are formed by irof” railsiresting upon, “cross:ties and supported by chairs ~
1% | ‘or other fixtures, the'whole being'termed e the permanent-way’” or Pp ' “superstructure.” 2nd, ‘A layer of'gravel or broken Btone from fifteen -
we edt
‘to thirty inches in thickness immediately under and around the cross-. "—
- ties, and technically, xalled “the ballast.” 8rd, An ‘earthen-surface '» uniformly even and -properly ditched: at. the- sides, . This surface’ is. ° “termed “ the formation Jevel,” * aud on itthe ballast ia: ‘placed, ‘and _ thus. proceeding: downwards. from the completed rail. track we ‘have: cee, - Tat. Thie Permanent way, As rs oe
~ 1. “@nd. The Ballast. « pa
“8rd, The Formation Zerel...— — i CRs
To those: ‘who-have observed. the successive ‘stages. of ‘railway build: ing it will be clear that “The F Formation, Level”. is not dissimilar, . except in. possessing easier of grades 0 ‘and cutves, to the best desoription a ,
oo :, tot ‘ . sae we, ., . nae Lo wo .ae
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of “ common’ earth roads,” and might readily be used ‘for‘all the ~ . purposes: for ‘which